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Bone
Cove Angler
Archive 2003-2009
Tackels
Tips Archives
by
Bob Tackels
The Passing of the Rod
By Bob Tackels
Every adult who has
introduced a child to the world of fishing has realized at some point that all
the patience, answered questions, hours of instruction and untangling of lines
has all been worth it. A sense of satisfaction, admiration and regret all come
together in that one moment when you realize that they can really do it on
their own. At that moment, we become impressed by our teaching skills, their
comprehension level and the fact that they WERE really paying attention! In
addition to the angling skills, they hopefully have learned many life lessons
along the way and have become just all around good people.
This day comes at all
different ages. Mine is easy to remember. My grandfather, Albert Stansfield,
always had time to take me fishing from the moment I could hold a rod in my
hand. We fished fresh and salt water from Maine to Florida together. It seemed
like every time I got in his car, so did the fishing rods. He knew how much
our time together and catching fish meant to me. My grandparents were
“Snowbirds”, wintering on Florida’s Gulf Coast for over twenty years and
living a block a way from me for the other half of the year. I would visit
them in Florida during school vacations and while there we would fish either
in the Gulf of Mexico or Sarasota Bay, at some point, almost every day. Many
nights we would venture onto one of the lighted piers and fish for speckled
trout, whiting and redfish. We would often be accompanied by one of the
handful of regular fishing partners and friends my grandfather spent time with
over the years. I learned much about fishing from all of them and even more
about life itself. They came to Florida in the winter months from many
different states. Most were from Michigan, Ohio, Illinois and Kentucky. They
were from all walks of life, but all true gentlemen with the patience of
saints.
One day, when I was
twelve years old, my grandfather felt ill and sent me off to fish with “The
Sheepshead King”. John “Shorty” Stroven and his wife were longtime friends of
my grandparents. I had fished on John’s boat many times and he was known
throughout the area as the best sheepshead fisherman there was. After spending
the day fishing off of The Longboat Key Pass Bridge fishing for sheepshead,
John dropped me off back at my grandparent’s house. My grandfather walked
outside as we pulled up and asked how we did. Shorty responded with “ I’m not
taking him anymore Al! He caught twice as many and bigger ones than me. He had
to drag them off the bridge because they were too heavy to carry! He was
kidding about not taking me anymore of course. John was my fishing buddy too.
I will never forget the approving looks of both men and how my grandfather
just smiled and laughed saying “Well Shorty, I did teach him most everything I
know”. They both laughed and Shorty told my grandfather that he thought I had
“graduated” and to stop teaching me while there were still some fish left! In
that span of a couple minutes, I had “arrived” as a fisherman. Two of the men
I admired most had paid me the ultimate compliment! My grandfather would
proudly tell the story of that day many times, to many people. Thankfully, he
lived a mostly healthy and long life to age 96.
My
son Matthew started fishing about the same time I did. Early on, his older
sister Katie would often join us on our
fishing adventures. She did very well in her own right, but her interests went
in a different direction, as they both grew older. Katie is an honor student
and gravitated to become very successful with music and theatre. Matthew was a
sponge when it came to fishing. We have fished from CT to FL in both fresh and
salt water. He still gets enjoyment and finds it challenging whether we are
catching native trout in our backyard stream or stripers off Sandy Hook. He
can cast a four-weight fly rod or a ten-foot surf rod with the same skill and
enthusiasm. Matthew has endured being called “Gilligan”, “Baitboy” and a
variety of other nicknames as he honed his fishing skills over the years. He
has always been up for anything and willing to pull his own weight as far as
readying tackle, cleaning up, etc. He has also learned to be not only a very
good fisherman, but also a very good person. Matthew is good at sports, a high
honors student, socially mature beyond his years and has a big heart. While
his mother and I would love to take all the credit, I truly feel that the many
hours, experiences and people we have encountered during our fishing
adventures have had something to do with it.
I knew it was my turn to
“pass the rod” shortly after Matthew’s thirteenth birthday. He has been a good
stream, pond, lake and beach fisherman for a while now and can “hang with the
boys” in just about any fishing environment. The day came this spring on a
striper trip aboard one of my oldest friends boats, off Sandy Hook. We had
caught dozens of big blues and decent stripers off the beaches and on this
boat in the past couple years, but this day was Matthew’s first chance at
bigger stripers. After snagging more bunkers for bait than my friend and I
combined, he rigged up, baited and casted out a new rod we had just purchased.
He caught the biggest striper of that day and fought it like a pro.
Ironically, I landed the second biggest a couple minutes later. My friend and
I looked at each other and blurted out “good job Buddy” as the net and fish
landed on the deck. The combination of my friend’s approving reaction and my
own proud, fatherly feelings gave me a flash back to that day in Florida long
ago. As we both posed for a quick picture and released our fish together, I
though of my grandfather and how he would have agreed I knew it was Matthew’s
time.

Life is full of good
feelings and bad. All we can do is our best to tilt the scales to the positive
side. “Passing the Rod” onto someone else is one of the most satisfying and
rewarding experiences you can have. Here are a couple tips that can help in
getting you there.
Start young and make it casual –
Portray fishing as just something fun to do. Make it light and go to
places that are sure to provide plenty of action.
Always make it interesting
– Combine it with a trip to the playground, a
nature walk or going for ice cream.
Have patience –
You will be surprised some day how if you give a little now, you will get a
lot in return one day. Like any investment, it takes time.
Answer all the questions –
When they stop asking, you start. The more
that is said, the more is learned.
Never force the issue –
Remember it needs to be fun and desired time.
If they are not in the mood, pick another time.
Recognition –
Be enthusiastic about the smallest of accomplishments. They want and need
praise.
Be Positive –
Let them know your are still proud of them for trying even when they step on
and break your favorite fishing rod!
Time Utilization
– Use the time to find out what is going on in their lives, not just the
fish’s. This is a great chance to really get to know your children from
pre-school through puberty!
I often hear people speaking and often
complaining how they spend so much time revolving around their children’s
activities. While ball sports, gymnastics, dance, music, etc. are all
excellent activities, a parents involvement is often not more than providing
transportation, funding and support up in the stands. Time spent on a
shoreline or in a boat can truly be quality time spent with what should be a
priority in your life for a very long time. There are never any guarantees
that you will get out what you put in, but it should be worth a try.
Fish safe, stay dry, practice “catch and release”
and remember that FAMILY FISHING IS FUN TOO!!
- Bob Tackels
GOLD RUSH!
Sometime during my early trout fishing days in
New Jersey, Fish and Game decided that since the hatcheries were having
problems and the average stocked fish was around 10 inches, they needed to do
something to get NJ anglers excited. At the time, the old Hackettstown Trout
Hatchery was having disease problems and NJ was buying fish from out of state.
The stocking trucks were loaded with a few “Golden tickets”
and the anglers
responded like Charlie trying to get a chance at going to Willie Wonka’s
factory! The hybrid strain of rainbow trout and west coast Golden trout became
a badge of honor to most that were lucky enough to catch them. You probably
had a one in a few thousand or more chance, but everyone wanted in! “Gold”
fever had hit the east coast and some tackle shops even conjured up special
Golden Trout baits to cash in! My adopted home state of Pennsylvania has done
an incredible job managing these fish and recently a new state record of over
12 pounds was caught!
Early on, these fish were mostly stocked in lakes and ponds. Few were stocked
in rivers and streams because they would act like a neon sign to predators and
unscrupulous fisherman willing to lower their standards and snag a “trophy”
fish. These
trout continually frustrated most anglers and I am sure there were many sore
shoulders and arms due to the amount of casting after them! Everyone had there
own secret on how to catch them, whether it was a special color lure or secret
scented bait! I have been fortunate enough to catch many of these unique fish
over the years. There are some tricks to fooling these beautiful fish, but it
has been my experience that color and
scent have little to do with it!
Life as an East Coast Golden or “Palomino”
Trout
Early on in their lives, these fish must realize that they are different. In
the public hatcheries, people “ooh and ah!” constantly at the sight of them
and little children chase them up and down the raceways and ponds throwing
food pellets at them. In addition to being harassed from the ground, birds of
prey can see them and single them out from the rest of the trout at about the
highest they can fly! If the hatchery had a protective netting over the
raceways and holding ponds, if they make to adulthood or trophy size, they
have now become very suspicious, wary and smart fish for the most part. When
it comes their time to be sacrificed and loaded onto a truck for the final
ride, these fish are singled out and often chased in the raceways and ponds
before loading and are already stressed out more than the hundreds of other brookie, browns and rainbows that join them.
It is no wonder that they often frustrate most anglers to the point where they
put on the Polaroid’s, tie on a big spinner and start ripping it through the
water in an effort to snag them! I have seen this, much to my dismay too many
times. After I try and reason with the assassins to no avail, I start drastic
measures. I will often throw rocks,
wade
out and scare or do anything I can to get these vulnerable targets into a
structured area or deeper water to prevent the “unsportsman – like” conduct
from happening as best I can. The attitude is always, “If I don’t do it
someone else will!” I honestly do not know how they sleep at night!
The very few fish that make it through the first few days after being stocked
are so spooked and stressed from running those snagging gauntlets, dodging
hawks, etc., that they will often hold tight in whatever sanctuary they have
found. Most will feed little or not at all for a while. Many will most likely
to become nocturnal or feed mostly in very low light conditions. The very few
that are lucky enough to be stocked in “holdover capable water” and make it
through the netting season (yes, several times I have heard of or personally
seen them being herded by both children and adults with nets in the shallow
water months of summer!) are in my opinions the true trophy and the heroes of
the trout world!
Where to look and how to find them
First off 99.9% of these fish are stocked. A
rare exception is the fish I’m holding on the top insert of every
Tackles Tips column that and biologists said
had “very little or no hatchery strain trout genetics”. It actually had
dominant brook trout genes rather than rainbow. That fish was a freak of
nature and somehow had survived in a heavily fished river to a ripe old age!
You need to do some research to see where these fish have been stocked and
approximately how many. Some states and hatchery officials will actually know
and tell you this if you ask. Once you narrow down your search area, the fun
really starts.
You have two choices. Follow hatchery trucks
and take your chances that one of those stressed out fish will actually bite
in the first few minutes or hours of stocking before someone snags it or start
hunting off the more beaten paths and easily accessible areas. Your best bet
is trying a stream that has a lot of structure throughout its course. Blow
downs, undercut banks, wide boulder strewn areas of fast water, etc. are prime
holding areas for not only Golden, but also most trophy trout. These areas
must be either shaded or have sufficient fast water nearby to sustain these
fish. Prime areas are stretches that has a deeper, slower pool with runs
leading in and out into another pool or structured area, with little cover up
or downstream from it. The smaller and winding though woods or heavy brush
streams are actually best. You need to sneak up on these fish, so wear dark
or camo clothing, stay out of the water as much as possible and wear your
Polaroid’s. I even use binoculars at times. First and last light are your best
times of day to catch them out of their hiding places.
How to catch them
My son and I always try and release all the
fish we catch in water that we know can hold fish over. A camera is almost
always in our vest. Out of the many Golden/ Palomino trout
we have landed, less than 20% have not been given the chance to thrill another
angler. These are
not
your average, dumb hatchery fish. If you can stand it, watch a fish for a
while and see if you can watch it feeding. You may only have a couple casts at
these fish before they go on guard or get spooked. By watching first,
you can make those casts really count. I would recommend light and small
whether you are holding a fly rod or ultra light rod. You need enough bend to
absorb a wild fight while using very light line, but enough butt to keep the
fish from heading into cover and breaking off. When targeting trophy fish, I
like a 5 ½ to 6 ft ultra light rod with a either 3 or 4 lb. test Tectan line.
In the 4 lb. test, it has the diameter of most 2 lb. test lines and I can fish
it without a fluorocarbon leader. I will usually tie on a #12 or a #10 dry fly
hook and use little or no weight. You will sometimes have to make long casts
at these fish. If you need to add some split shot, keep it at least a foot
from the bait. Fly rods are tricky in the heavy cover these fish often hang
out in, but if you find one where you can get your roll cast working, go for
it! I’ve never had the guts or real opportunity to try.
If I am trying for very recently stocked
fish, I will try Power Bait or anything else than is hatchery scented. This is
about the only thing that seems to trigger the stressed fish into feeding. For
some reason, yellow or chartreuse seems to work best, but the brown “hatchery
formulas” are a close second. These baits always work best in still or slow
moving waters.
For Goldens that have made it past the two
week post stocking period, I will carry mealworms (red and gold), butter / wax
worms and baby night crawlers/ garden worms with me . However, small crayfish,
Hellgrammites or fathead minnows work best if they are native to the water you
are fishing. Bringing a fine mesh bait net and turn over some rocks before you
set off after your shot at a trophy can be a worthwhile move. They few Golden
and other variety of trout that we have had to keep that were caught in the
summer/fall/winter all had at least one of these ingredients in their
stomachs!
You want to get the bait down to the fish as
naturally as possible. The drifts should put the bait in the target zone at
least six feet in front of fish if possible. If that cannot happen and the
trout is holding close to the shoreline, try dragging the bait off a log, rock
or the shoreline, etc. I once saw a Golden stationed under a tree with
inchworms falling off it. I just put on a small butter worm and let it “fall”
from the tree too. He never knew what hit him!
Golden/Palomino trout are fish that can be
the most challenging adversary you will ever encounter in the water or they
can be the
easiest target you will ever cast to after the stocking truck leaves. If it is
a “put and take” fishery, good luck and bring the kids! If not, give them a
break early on and they will hopefully someday make it up to you down the
road. If you want a trophy fish bad enough to snag one or even net one, I can
supply a list of public hatcheries where you can buy one!
Fish safe and with
a buddy, stay dry, practice catch and release whenever possible, keep it
clean, respect others and always take a child fishing whenever possible.
Family fishing is fun too!
-Bob Tackels
Ode to “The
Rod Bender”

…and some boat buying tips!
1986
was a great year for me. In addition to marrying my wife of now 21 years, I
finally got around to buying my first “real” boat. After starting off with a
10 foot Pram, then a John boat and a “very customized” 12 foot semi – v, it
was time to broaden my fishing horizons. While Party and Charter boats filled
the needs my smaller vessels couldn’t, I wanted to control my own destiny
while out on the water. Back then, I was on or in the water at least 2 days a
week average, year round. I was fishing many of NJ ‘s many holdover Trout
lakes and reservoirs, honing my trolling skills and getting ready to try Lake
Ontario for the big boys! In addition, I was heavily into the Fluke, Blues and
Stripers around the Raritan Bay/ Sandy Hook area. Vacationing/ fishing in the
salt and fresh waters of VA. NC., and Florida also played into the equation. I
needed a boat that would trailer easily, handle rough water safely and not
empty my wallet! After attending many outdoor and boat shows, visiting
showrooms, speaking with many different boat owners and boat companies, my
partner and I made a decision.
We only had a budget of 5K each
to put into our new vessel! After much negotiating, we ended up with the
perfect boat for our needs. It was light enough to tow with a 6 cylinder
vehicle, built tough enough to handle our bay and inshore/ ocean adventures
and we could also use it on most of the holdover trout lakes/ reservoirs in
the area. It had plenty of fishing room, and extra large insulated live well
(which doubled as cooler large enough for a few 30 + pound Salmon laid out
flat and layered with ice!) and could seat 4 people. After a successful yard
sale and some family contributions, such as a marine radio, etc; we could add
all the extras we could ever dream of!
We picked up our 18-½ foot
aluminum Fisher Marine Center Console, out fitted with a 75 hp and a 9.9 hp
outboard with dual controls at the console and a galvanized trailer on a
Friday. By the following weekend we had added “ easy steer”, 10 rod holders, 4
manual downriggers, bimini top, Marine Radio, Lowrance (state of the art
for’86) Fish finder, “stay level” cup holders, net holder, ski/ trolling
mirror, mounted spot light and all the other “coast guard required” and
“little extras” such as drift sock, marker buoys, large landing net, oxygen/
temp probe, etc. Since we were usually trolling or fighting fish back then we
call our boat “The Rod Bender” and we were ready!

On the first outing we soon
realized that totally loaded, we could easily run at 35 mph in a chop and stay
dry! With the 9.9 motor, we could troll at a slow speed of .5 mph and run at
about 10 mph on a flat lake. I had positioned and mounted everything so that
even with the bimini top up we could troll with the downriggers, drift or cast
after Blues with ease. Thanks to the many storage areas in the console and in
the deep bow, everything was easily accessible! Our new rig also did not go
unnoticed. Our first day at Round Valley Reservoir had more than a dozen or so
fellow anglers checking us out from bow to stern with smiles and nods at the
boat ramp! At Atlantic Highlands and else where, the scene was repeated.
Comments like “the ultimate fishing machine” were common. We even had other
boats follow us to the ramp on a few occasions and once a NJ State Trooper
(and fellow angler) pulled me over on I80. I wasn’t speeding, but he came to
my window and asked me to get out of the truck and move to the shoulder where
he asked me all about the boat! The attention lasted a couple years or so
before we could launch and fish uninterrupted.
This Fisher Marine boat and Suzuki
motors has been a dream to own. We could troll 12 hours on less than 6 gallons
of gas with our 9.9 motor. Aside from a new steering cable and live well pump,
everything is original from 21 years ago! Amazingly, the 75 hp Suzuki ran
trouble free for 20 years. I did have a slight oil leak recently and a
carburetor now needs to be replaced. The 9.9 lasted 18 trouble free years
after thousand of hours of trolling and cruising the reservoirs and lakes. I
replaced the 9.9 with used Suzuki 8 hp. a couple years ago, so the motors
match up. I have upgraded or replaced the electronics and seats, but the
flooring, hatches, etc. are all original. The boat is a deep V with a “wave
tamer” bow. It is all aluminum- no wood and has a hull weight of 700 lbs. We
have got caught in some very bad conditions out on the water. It has weathered
5 plus foot seas on more than a few occasions, including a monster surprise
storm in the Raritan Bay area that sank a few bigger boats and claimed a
couple lives. In short, the old Rod Bender has kept us safe and never let us
down throughout the years. It deserves this recognition for all its
great service. In addition to all the fishing trips, the Rod Bender has also
towed skiers / tubers and acted as a photography platform.
Owning a boat can be a
costly proposition. With today’s high gas prices and hourly repair rates, it
can be more of a burden than a pleasure. That is why finding a boat that is
adaptable and compliant to your needs and expectations takes a little hard
work. Here are a few tips that may help you find the “Rod Bender” of your own.
The Lists – make up a list of how and
where you want to use your boat. If you want a specialty boat such as a Bass
boat, Crappie boat, etc., think it out carefully. Add to the list other
possible usages as well. The list would obviously be shorter if you are a
diehard bass fisherman only. Make up another list of priorities, such as
speed, stability, tow ability, resale, etc. at the very least these lists will
make you think!
Research –
Find the top manufacturers for the type of boat you want, whether you are
looking at new or used. Start with the top 3. Compare resale, standard
packages, beam width, dead rise, materials used, warrantees, etc. The Internet
can get you most of this information. It is also a good idea to call the
manufacturer direct and ask to speak to someone in the engineering or design
department. Tell them how you plan to use the boat and see if they have any
recommendations. After you have narrowed down the research, find out the
closest locations to see the boat in person. Find out if there are any Boat
Shows or Outdoor Shows coming up that your choice model would be featured. If
you are looking at used boats, check out dealers/ brokers that sell that
manufacturer or similar boats. Let them know what you are looking for. Also,
check out boating magazines, Internet sites and want ads that pertain to
boats.
Hulls –
Depending on where you plan on using the boat, whether you plan on towing it,
etc., the right hull design is important. If you plan on fishing large lakes,
bays or possibly the ocean, a deep V and high sides should be a priority.
Ideally, you want the gunnels to be thigh high on a boat like this. You also
will want a bow design that will keep you dry while running in choppy water.
Center, side or dual console is another major decision. It all depends again
on planned usage. Weight also comes into play here. Many fiberglass hulls are
reinforced with wood, etc. or use other materials for hatch and storage areas.
Aluminum boats are not always all aluminum. I knew of a person who had to
replace his wood floor and hatch covers on his aluminum boat after only 7
years at a major cost and inconvenience! Some fiberglass boats are single
hull, others are double hull. You really need to check the design and
construction of a boat out carefully to avoid major problems down the road.
Power Options – This can be the
toughest decision you will have to make. Inboard vs. outboard, 2 stroke (I
happen to think the new Evinrude V-tech is the best O/B engine on the market!)
vs. a 4 stroke motor. Keep in mind that 2 strokes are lighter, quicker and
easier to maintain than 4 strokes. Your selected boat may have a max HP rating
of 150, but do you need the extra cost, weight and speed to do what you want
to do or will a less expensive 125 HP motor suffice. If you do a lot of
trolling, you may want to run a smoother 4 stroke for precise trolling speed
control over a 2 stroke. On bigger boats, you will need to find out the pro’s
/cons of I/O vs. OB on that particular model. Most I/O take up precious stern
fishing room on many models. Please realize that many manufacturers now sell
boat packages (boat, motors, trailer, etc.) in order to cut costs. You are not
locked into only what those packages offer!
Extras – This
is the most over looked item by most boat buyers. Can you buy tops and covers
from the manufacturer or do they have to be custom ordered? Are the gunnels
wide enough to install downriggers, flush mount rod holders etc.? Is the
dashboard area large enough to accommodate a marine radio, fish finder,
compass or a GPS? If you want to add seating, can you? Are the tracks/ tubes
to run the controls wiring open enough to run additional cable or wires if I
want to? Can the transom accommodate a kicker motor if I want to add one on
later? How about a bow mounted trolling motor? It is really best to get this
all out in the open before you buy. I had a friend that was forced to run
wires above deck because of poor access!

There are many
things to consider when making a boat purchase. After the fact problems or
realizations can sink a boat owner! Remember that this is something you
should be happy about and enjoy using. It is not something to spend time
working on or stressing over. Over the years, I’ve had many family members,
guests and plenty of regulars aboard the Rod Bender. We always had fun, almost
always caught plenty of fish and it never let us down. Hopefully these tips
will assist with your search and help you find your own Rod Bender!
Size Matters!
Smaller Can Be Better!
We had
driven past this pond hundreds of times. When the leaves were on the trees it
was barely visible unless you were actually looking for it. Curiosity didn’t
kill me, but I did finally pull over in a gully one day to hike in and check
it out! No “Posted” signs, no visible trails and some of the thickest brush
and blow downs I had ever encountered. The whole shoreline was overgrown with
“trees gone wild” and dense thickets. I crashed my way down a barely used deer
trail and after about 20 minutes emerged battered at the only open spot I
could see on the whole pond shore. The banks looked steep and totally
overgrown aside from the shallow corner I was in. After venturing out about 5
feet into the water, I was sucked into muck up to my knees! I did see a few
sizeable swirls and a medium size bass take off in the short time I was there.
There had to be a better way! Shore fishing or wading it were out of the
question! As I retreated to the car, I thought of a few abandoned quarry ponds
that were also hard to reach and a couple other bodies of water that were
impossible to fish from shore. My car topper aluminum boat was too big and
heavy, any inflatable, including belly boats, would be surely tested by the
trail in and the structure once I got there. A week later I found the solution
to my dilemma!
Canoes for 250 please
Alex!
Every week I scan the “boats
for sale” section of our Sunday paper. For some reason, this week I also
looked at the “articles for sale” section. One small ad immediately caught my
eye!
10 ½ Ft. Square back Fiberglass Canoe with paddles, asking $250.
BAM! There it was just like the answer
to a Jeopardy question that said “Something portable, sturdy, repairable,
quiet and versatile to get into hard to reach, barely fished bodies of water?”
It turned out the owner lived 5 minutes from my house and I knew him from
visits to the local convenience store. He seemed to like the idea that the
canoe would be used by a father and son for fishing! When he saw the
excitement in my son’s eyes about the possible adventures ahead, he sold it to
us for $200, threw in paddles, cushions, an extension cable to for an electric
motor battery to be stationed in the middle and offered to deliver it to us!
The canoe was in great shape, sturdy, plenty of room for two and gear, light
enough for me to put on roof racks myself and perfect for my son and I to go
just about anywhere in! I bungeed it down onto and old set of roof racks atop
my Nissan and we were off!
Customized Fat Boy
Although
10-½ ft sounds short, the Scott Canoe Company of Canada did a great job in
designing this canoe. It has a rolled, wide
body design that has a padded/molded backseat and a regular padded aluminum
canoe seat in front. The square back transom is also very durable and roomy
enough to accommodate any electric motor transom mount. Because it is
fiberglass, it has a very sturdy feel to it and even when it is loaded
to near its 550 lb. capacity, can handle white caps on a lake.
It would take a lot of effort to flip this canoe and even if you did, the
exterior wrapped molded foam flotation wouldn’t allow it to sink.
After the first voyage
on a small lake, I was so impressed that my mind started cranking about ways
to make this craft a true fishing machine!
First off, we
wrapped all the aluminum gunnels and seat trim with durable black foam pipe
insulator. This assured a stealthy approach
in shallow water since the fiberglass is quiet to begin with. Next we bought a
couple gray plastic boat seats to mount on the swivel “clamp on brackets” I
already had for the boat. They worked well and were lightweight. We drilled a
few holes in the seat pan to drain out any water and in the backrest for some
ventilation. Next we bought a small rubber coated mushroom anchor and four
adjustable “Fish On” type rod holders. They mounted securely with only two
screws into the aluminum gunnels. Lastly, we clamped
on the 46 lb. thrust Minn Kota motor. We
could almost tow someone on a tube with that on the back! To make it all
easier to move around, I purchased a Cabelas Canoe Cart. We strap down the
rear end of the loaded up canoe to the cart and let the 13” bike tires do most
of the work! They are durable and can bounce over most rocks and logs without
a problem! The cart folds up and can be stored in the front of the canoe
easily!
Total investment with customizations, excluding seat
mounts and motor, including canoe cart, rod holders seats, anchor, etc. was
about $350. Without a doubt, the best $350 I
have ever spent on fishing!
Versatility Plus
With this set up you can take
on any “electric motor only” lake, small “non powered” pond or just about any
Trout or Smallmouth river you dare to! You
can strip it down or load it up in a few minutes. It is small enough to get
into just about anywhere you can walk into, yet it can handle the same type of
fishing or water as a 12 or 14 ft. aluminum boat! Whether you paddle it or
motor it, is up to you and how you intend to use it.
One day we started off on a sizeable “ electric motors
only” Trophy Trout lake with the motor, rod holders, drift sock, swivel seats,
portable sonar unit, bait bucket, food cooler, battery, tackle boxes, etc. On
the way home stopped at a small remote Bass pond with just a couple rods, some
top water lures and the paddles. We were one
of 6 boats on that lake and we heard quite a few comments about our set up and
how quick we moved along! We later had that pond all to ourselves! We caught
over a dozen or so Trout and about the same amount of Bass that day, plus a
couple frogs and turtles. All were released and we just had a fun time! The
canoe glided over a few inches of water, bounced off logs/ rocks unscathed,
handled some waves in a 20 mph wind and was very easy to get in and out
of!
You can rack it on top of any type of car or even the
smallest SUV. Fiberglass is quiet, has some give, and repairs like new, unlike
the molded
plastic newer canoes or any of the aluminum models.
Maintenance is nothing more than flipping it over and a quick shot with the
garden hose! In the event of some major damage, a fiberglass patch kit is easy
to use and will not impede the durability or compromise the strength of the
craft. Molded plastic models Such as the Coleman canoes or aluminum canoes
cannot make the same claims.
This is not the same
vessel you want to take on a “Deliverance” type journey or shoot class 3
rapids with, but for just
about
everything else you can get the job done and be comfortable doing it! We are even thinking of trying it in a few
back bay areas and can’t wait to see what it would be like to have a Striper
tow us around! It is truly that stable.
While a small canoe is certainly not the answer for all
types of fishing, it does open many doors that otherwise may have remained
shut. Think of all of the county, state and federal waterways out there that
do not allow gas engines. Add all the hard to get to ponds, lakes and river
sections. The possibilities are endless. Smaller waters often are fished less
and subsequently have a larger average fish size. Kayaks are becoming popular
fishing tools recently, but have way more limitations than a “Fat Boy canoe!
Fish safe, stay dry, practice catch and release, wear
your flotation device and sunscreen. Family Fishing is Fun Too!!
- Bob Tackels
The Bunker Dunkers
Every spring while most tri state area anglers are
spooling four pound test line onto ultra light reels, a select group of die
hard “Salties” are eagerly awaiting the arrival of another fish that also
averages around a foot long. However, these fish will not arrive by stocking
truck and will not end up being table fare. They are the most sought after
“choice bait” for the larger Striped Bass wandering the waters of the tri
state area. These ocean travelers migrate into the bays and coastlines every
spring and act as a signal to the hardcore band of anglers that the big
Striped Bass are ready to be challenged. This has been a longstanding ritual
and has become a barometer of sorts for anglers targeting these “cow”
Stripers.
Bunkers are a
fast moving, fork tailed, silvery baitfish that travel in schools as large as
a few acres in size. They are pursued commercially and by every serious
Striper fisherman on the water!
I was first introduced to The “Bunker Dunkers” years
back. I was on a friend’s boat for the first time and had no idea what to
expect. He had mentioned “we needed to get some Bunker at first light”. We
sped out of the marina and across Raritan Bay quickly joining a tightly
grouped flotilla of all types and sizes of boats. As we got close, he handed
me a light action, 7 ft. rod with a weighted treble hook and said, “start
casting and reeling in fast”. As he was readying his custom Bunker cast net
and I started casting, “bunker snaggers” bounced off the bow of our boat! It
was a crazy, frenzied scene for the next half hour or so. People were casting
and snagging all around us, boats were speeding off as new boats were speeding
in to join the group. Once we had our live well full enough of Bunker (I
actually contributed about 20% of the harvest), we too sped out of the pack to
a nearby Striper hotspot!
Here are a few tips that may assist you in becoming a
successful member of the Bunker Dunker Club.
Collecting Bunker
A couple conversations around the boat ramp/marina, your
marine radio or reviewing websites should get you to the general area where
the big Bunker schools are. If not, look for a bunch of boats acting
erratically! Usually the larger Bunker schools start to break into smaller
ones
once the boat traffic picks up. You can see the schools swimming on the
surface. Sometimes there will be Blues or Stripers after them crashing at the
surface, but not always. Just off channels in the bays is usually a good
area. There are really two ways to get live bunker for bait. Using a large
mesh/ extra weight cast net is probably the easiest once you have mastered the
throwing component. I would practice up on my throwing technique before I
actually joined in the mayhem of a Bunker pack! Some localized tackle shops
sell special Bunker cast nets and they are worth the money! The other method
is snagging the bait with a weighted treble hook, similar to the Salmon River
snagging rigs of the old days. Whether you are netting or casting, try to
aim a little to the front of the school so that when they scatter you have a
better chance at a hook up. They scatter to the front and sides and rarely
backwards! When snagging, you want to try and run your line perpendicular to
the school. This will give you the largest targets as you jerk and retrieve
the snagger. Get the bait into the live well ASAP and keep the water
flowing. Try not to overcrowd the live well and remove any bait that is barely
alive. They will hamper the efforts to keep the lively ones going strong.
Put the dead baitfish on ice. They can be used as cut bait/chum or even frozen
for another outing.
Presenting the Bunker
There are a few schools of thought here. Some like using
a large circle hook and others swear by the treble hook method. When using
a circle hook, make sure to hook the Bunker from the upper mouth to the
nostril. This seems to provide the best hook sets and keeps
the Bunker active the longest.
If you are a believer in the treble hook method, make sure to use a wide
gap treble and hook the bait just in front of the dorsal fin towards the head
with one of the hooks. The reason for these hook placements is simple.
Stripers will usually take on a Bunker headfirst. These hook placements
allow the angler to not have to wait for the Striper to swallow these big
Bunker in order to get a secure hookup. This allows for an easier release of
unwanted fish. Make sure to run a fluorocarbon leader of three to four feet
using thirty to fifty pound test quality leader material while using Bunker.
It does make a big difference.
Depending on current, anchor or drift method and where
the fish are feeding will decide how to rig your Bunker.
If Bass are crashing bait on top, run the leader to a
large barrel swivel and try live lining. If they are hanging off the bottom,
go with a standard 3-way rig. If you aren’t sure, try a “fish finder”(slide
rig). I prefer a barrel swivel / egg sinker rig. It allows me to “feel” the
bait best and I can add/ subtract weight easily if needed.
Beating the Blues
In many cases, there will be Bluefish feeding above the
fat lazy Stripers below! Blues will usually swipe at bait on the way down,
leaving just the head with your hook in it! Very frustrating! You can either
add more weight and try getting the bait down faster, attach a wire lead with
a stinger hook (off the main hook) to the tail of the Bunker and make the
Blues pay for their aggressiveness or try the “Brown Bag” technique! I
first heard about the “Brown Bag” technique years ago from a very savvy, ex
Long Island charter captain. The Brown Bag
technique is so simple and full of common sense that is still amazes me how
many guys never heard of it! You will need some brown paper lunch bags and a
bucket full of rocks about the size of golf balls for this one! Put a few
rocks into a brown lunch bag. Take your rigged Bunker and put him in a lunch
bag headfirst. Scrunch the bag tight around the line and drop it overboard.
When the bag gets to the bottom, gently lift up with your rod. This will
pull the Bunker out of the bag and in the Striper zone will no Blues beating
him up on the way down. The bag is biodegradable and the rocks will not harm
the environment either. Try it! It really works because Blues don’t eat paper!
Sometimes just using the head of a Bunker can solve your problem with the
Blues. As I mentioned before, Blues are not fond of the heads and many
times the big Bass will lazily hang on the bottom picking off injured bait or
just the heads. You may also try snipping the top tail section of very
lively bunker to add to their attractiveness to the lazy Bass before you “bag
‘em”..
Tackle
Again, everyone
has there own preference. Whether you like spinning or conventional reels,
make sure they can handle a 30-40 lb. fish and have the line capacity for at
least 150 yards of your favorite mono or braid. The reels need to
have a very good drag system. I maybe old school, but I prefer my bait
runner type spinning reels loaded with 20-30 lb test premium, small diameter
mono. This way if I need to put the rod in a holder I can leave the bait
runner feature on. Cabelas’ Salt Striker or the Okuma Expedior series are
tough, moderately priced reels that have never let me down.
Rods are again open to debate. I like a stiff butt/
flexible enough tip, 7 ft. rod rated for up to 30 lb test line. You want to
have a little flex to the tip so that is takes less stress off the Bunker
swimming.
As far as terminal tackle is concerned, stick with
well-made barrel and 3-way swivels from companies such as Sampo or others of
equivalent quality. Mustad, and Gamagatsu make excellent circle and treble
hooks that are strong enough.
If you are using egg sinkers, make sure the open ends are
smooth to avoid line wear near the knot.
Where?
Not an easy question! I have seen days where the bay
wasn’t producing and the ocean area out by the Hook was. Along the channel
edges in the bays and in about 20-30 feet of ocean is a good place to start. I
always like to try around the Bunker schools where I collect my bait first. If
you see action on top it is a good bet that there are big Bass below. That is
always worth giving a try. Keep an eye on the Striper websites and an ear to
your radio. Remember if it was easy, it would be catching- not fishing.
If you are not a “Bunker Dunker” you need to give it a
try. You will not have the quantity as with early season clam fishing for
Stripers, but the
quality is hard to beat. You can always cheat and throw a clam on one of the
rods! Just an FYI- if you cannot get live bunker, try the heads of fresh
Bunker. Never buy the frozen Bunker. It will not stay on the hook gets
mushy and smells bad! As a Bunker alternative (as long a no Blues are around)
you can try one of the Bunker “look a like” swim baits. The Blues will tear
them up however! They work great by themselves and even better if you spray
them with one of the Bunker oils or scents on the market today.
Remember to fish safe, use your sunscreen, practice
catch and release and take a child fishing every chance you get. Family
fishing is fun to!
Our Spring Thing
Every
April, Northeast anglers from Maine to Maryland gather at the shorelines of
their favorite creek, river, pond or lake. Often it is a life long tradition
to wake up at dawn on your home state’s designated Saturday morning. After a
seemingly sleepless night, you venture out to stake your claim on a small
piece of real estate and wait until the designated time to start fishing. Some
locales provide an almost carnival atmosphere! In many cases, the places and
faces are often the same year after year. Camaraderie, getting caught up on
the past year’s news, good-natured ribbing and even helpful tips abound UNTIL
the first bait hits the water! At that precise moment on a hopefully beautiful
spring morning, all bets are off, game faces are on and the most competitive
couple of hours in the sport of angling begin! Of course some take it more
seriously than others and believe that all their preparation, expensive
equipment and years of experience command the choice water and right of way
during their frantic and inaccurate casting of a spinner! Yet some others act
as though they are the only anglers on the water to pay the increasingly high
state license fee, which in their mind, entitles them to their limit of fish!
In most cases, the first ten minutes of fishing will give a clear picture of
the day’s outcome! Patience will be tried; tangled lines cut, fish will get
caught and not everyone will go home happy!
For
over 40 years I have been a participant of this spectacle in four different
states. I had even changed my wedding date so it would not prevent me from
honoring this sacred tradition! I still ask myself why, but I also still have
a mostly sleepless night before the Trout Season Opener! The game has not
changed in all those years. The state stocks fish, the anglers surround the
stocking area, the stocked trout usually get slaughtered! For years I would
proudly display my morning limit of stocked fish for friends, family and
camera. Often, if the “getting was good” I would go back after dinner and
catch a second limit of fish! Size was never the issue. If the state stocked 8
inch Rainbows, that was what you put in your creel. If you were lucky enough
to catch one of the few brood fish, you were a hero! I can honestly say that I
can count on one hand the amount of openers that I did not at least catch my
limit of trout. While I was admittedly a “fish hog” for many of my pre-adult
years, times have changed and so has my approach to Opening Day of Trout
Season. I no longer creel my limit, but am very selective on the few fish I do
keep. I am now a “quality over quantity” angler, but still usually catch more
than the states “in possession” limit during most openers!
Here are a few tips that
may increase your quantity and quality for next years Trout Opener!
Recon
Gather all the info you can
about a few bodies of water you may fish for opening day. Most state websites
have ample information about the states stocking program. They do this because
most of your fishing license fee costs goes to fund the program! Keep in mind
most states will put the most and better fish in very accessible and popular
areas for the opener! Pictures in the Sunday newspaper after Opening Day of
happy anglers holding big fish validate what a great job your Fish and Game
commissions are doing! The other areas to consider are holdover streams in
stretches that are very open to traffic. Stockers will put fish in at bridges
nearest busy country roads because there is less chance of a hole getting
fished out early by poachers. There was a great stretch of the Pequest River
in NJ, north of Rt.
80
that I use to fish. Every year they would put in good numbers and sizes, plus
there would be some holdovers. One year we arrived at dawn to find trout guts
and empty worm containers on the shoreline and no fish in the two closest
pools. It happened again the next year. It was a pretty remote spot off a
gravel road surrounded by mostly woods. They never stocked that stretch again
due to several complaints!
Keep in mind that stocked
Brook and Rainbow trout bite best in cold water. If you know what type they
stocked and where, you may want to shy away from the Browns. I once was at the
upper Ramapo River in NY. They had stocked mostly Browns and a few Rainbows.
Out of the 10 guys fishing that Opening Day within eyesight, only 2 Browns
were caught and over 30 Rainbows. You could see Browns all over the 2 pools,
but they wouldn’t hit. We went back there once the weather warmed up the
following week. We caught plenty and all were Browns!
Be sure to check out areas
you haven’t been to for more than a month or so. I once traveled 2 hours to a
“honey hole” only to find out they were reconstructing a bridge and the hole
was now a mud flat that wasn’t stocked! I have also had a few surprises from
beaver dams, floodwaters changing river bottoms, new POSTED signs, etc.
Match
The Hatch
Okay, so they are stockies
for the most part and don’t even know what a hatch is! The principal is still
the same.
Power Bait –
In slow moving or still
waters, make sure to have Power Bait! I have consistently caught my biggest
stocked fish on opening day in slow moving or still water on it. If I know
what they stocked (Rainbows, Browns or Brookies) it will make your Power Bait
choice easier. There are many other brands of scented bait and I’ve done my
testing. Nothing has come close to the original for staying on the hook and
catching fish, period!
If
you can find it, the Hatchery Formula (with or without cheese) in the
resealable pouch (brownish nuggets) is the best overall Power Bait! If the
Hatchery Formula isn’t available, here are some tips for what colors of the
“nuggets in the jar type” to choose. For Rainbows – pink, orange or
white seems to work best. For Brookies and Golden Trout (Palomino’s) –
chartreuse or yellow. For Browns- gold or white. Another good all
around choice is the yellow “corn” formula. One last item on this subject. Try
a little Trout jelly or juice on your Power Bait. It can sometimes trigger
picky brood fish!
Live Bait-
Recently released hatchery
trout that are on the prowl want the BEEF. They are use to getting fed daily
and after a few days on their own become fixated on eating.
I prefer ½ night crawlers,
baby night crawlers or mealworms above anything else. Burry a # 10 or # 12 dry
fly hook into one of these offerings with a small enough split shot just to
hold bottom and you have a deadly combination! Only one year did I see Fathead
minnows out produce worms. Luckily, I always have a few on hand for the
opener! Fatheads and other small minnows will work gradually better as the
water and weather warms in May. That also is when most Browns are stocked and
Browns LOVE Fathead minnows!
Artificials –
There
are two schools of thought for using lures on opening day. You have a better
chance of catching the more aggressive fish quicker and a better chance at a
larger brood fish. Both are true under certain circumstances. However, unless
you are in a sparsely populated body of water, you will most likely spend more
time untangling your line than fishing, not to mention aggravating an already
tense situation! Small spinners, jigs and even small plugs will work, but use
your head and make sure you are not interfering with other anglers. I once had
a nice 20+ inch Brookie almost to the net when a spinner came whizzing across
the creek and became ensnarled in the 15 feet of line I had left to reel in.
To make matters worse the guy chucking the spinner thought he had a hit upon
contact with my line and jerked back hard enough to set the hook on a 30 lb
Striper! Brookie gone, Bob mad and Mr. Spinner hightailed it for his car after
a series of threats from both sides of the river! Just be mindful of your
surroundings when tossing lures. Stocked Rainbows tend to launch after
silver or white patterns with a hint of red or blue. Stocked Brookies and
Golden (Palomino) trout tend to like bright colors like Fire Tiger
patterns, yellow, chartreuse, more painted than polished offerings. Browns
like gold blades, dull colors like brown or even dark green or black with
a matching feather tail. Just be mindful of other anglers when casting lures.
Make sure you have the room and any drift accounted for so you can avoid
tangles, a cut line and a barrage of unkind words!
Tackle
Rods, Reels and Line
Leave the light finesse rods
and 2 lb test at home! These rods are best used after the crowds have died
down and the fish have become educated! For opening day I like a 5 – 5 ½ ft
ultra-light with a strong enough butt section to lift a 1 lb can up to your
chest without much effort! A reel that has a smooth drag and a large diameter
spool can make life much easier! The reason for this is that too short a rod
lessens
your reach to get around potential tangle or snag situations. Too whippy a rod
and you will waste too much time netting even small trout and if you do throw
lures you will not get great hook sets. While a limber rod is fun later in the
season while using 2 lb test on an open stretch of
water, it is not practical in a crowded pool or pond. Opening day is either
about filling your creel or culling fish until you get “the big ones”. You
want to catch and keep or catch and release as many as you can until you
obtain your goal. A large diameter spool will provide less tangles, quicker
retrieves and usually smoother drags. I
will use either Tectan 4 lb test or some other small diameter premium line
that is limp and casts effortlessly. You want to stay away from the Spider,
Braided or “extra tough”/ abrasive resistant lines for trout fishing! They are
too hard to break off if you get snagged, don’t cast well and may spook even
an uneducated hatchery trout!
Hooks and Sinkers
For EVERYTHING other than
Power Bait or Fatheads, I have found a #12 or #10 Dry Fly hook to be the
best all around hooks for trout under 5 lbs! They are sharp, bury in a
mealworm or baby night crawler excellent, are lightweight, but strong enough
to use with 4 lb test! They will dissolve quickly if left in the fish, usually
result in hook sets in the mouth area and rarely pull free! I will use a # 10
Nymph hook if the fish are running larger or if there is swift current or very
deep pools. Once the crowds die down and the fish are warier or you are
stalking holdovers or natives, then a # 12 with 2 lb test is your best bet.
Power Bait and Fatheads
are best fished on a wider
gap, shorter shank hook. I prefer a # 10 or 12 egg hook or the finer wire
“octopus” model hook over anything else. They will hook up better with the
“snatch” bite that occurs using these baits rather than the “nibble” bite of
worm type baits. They will also hold the bait better and provide the Fathead
with a little wiggle room.
For live bait, I
still prefer lead, “easy open” split shots. I have tried the non- lead
variety and do not like them. I’d like to be as environmentally minded as
everyone else, but lead offers a smaller size per weight and that makes a
difference! If there is a fast, rocky-bottomed stretch that has many snags, I
will often go to a snagless, “split shot in a sock” type weight. They work
well and come in dull, low visibility colors.
For Power Bait, I
will use a small barrel swivel and egg sinker with a leader of 1-2 feet. This
allows the bait to suspend off the bottom and give the fish a chance to
swallow and run. Unfortunately, this is very common with Power Bait. Fish will
swallow it and you will lose hooks. Try to use the smallest egg sinker/ barrel
swivel possible!
There is nothing wrong with keeping your limit of trout,
especially on a body of water that offers little or no chance for hold over.
However, keep in mind that a 12 inch stocked trout in April can be a fat 14-15
inch fish in the fall!
You will get out of the
season opener what you put into it. A little planning can have big dividends.
Fish safe, stay dry,
practice catch and release and take a child fishing as often as possible!
Family fishing is fun too!
- Bob Tackels
Hail To The KING! and
The Iceman Cometh...
Hail to
the King!
In the dark, we lined up side by side in the deep pool
just below the rapids. You could see the outlines of long rods at the east end
of the pool where the sun was just peaking over the horizon. There was no room
left on the gravel bar in waist deep water. Anyone who arrived now
would either have to try and
muscle his way in or take a chance at one of the smaller pools or breaks
downstream. A few anglers strategically placed themselves above the big pool
down a narrow run off the far riverbank. I looked around thinking how the
scene reminded me of the opening day of New Jersey’s trout season. Just then,
something slammed into my right leg almost knocking me over! The guy next to
me kind of laughed and said, “they’re big, but they don’t bite!” I sure wasn’t
in Jersey anymore!
Those first few minutes on the Salmon River in Pulaski,
NY changed my fishing forever. While other anglers either only dreamed of
catching a Pacific Salmon or traveled expensively west in pursuit of these
fish, all I had to do was drive a little over five hours and put on a pair of
waders! It became addictive before I had even hooked my first Salmon!
There are several
types of Salmon in Lake Ontario. Landlocked, Atlantic and Coho
Salmon are speedy, tackle testing challenges for any angler. The mighty
Chinook or King Salmon however is in a class by itself! These are the largest
of the salmonoid species introduced into some of the Great Lakes over the past
35 years to originally assist with the overpopulation of forage fish such as
alewives and smelt. The once plentiful native species such as Lake Trout and
Walleye were depleted by commercial fishing and in some cases pollution.
Biologists experimented and I feel they got more than they bargained for!
Introducing these west coast eating machines, along with the German Brown
Trout and later Pacific Steelhead varieties, sure took care of the forage fish
problem, but created another one. What to fish for!
ANYONE with a pair of
waders and a fishing rod can catch Browns, Steelhead or Salmon in Oswego
County, NY at various times of the year. If you own ANY
type of boat 16 ft or larger you can greatly improve your chances and
extend your window of opportunities with little or no additional boat
modifications or expenses! In fact, you can get in on this unique fishery for
the cost of gas and maybe $50 in lures to start off with!
For years, in addition
to planned overnight weekend trips, my friends and I would go on “suicide runs
“ to the “Big O”. This meant leaving at midnight to get there before sunrise. We would fish until 1 or
2 pm and then drive home for dinner! Yes it
was crazy, but if you picked your days, drank enough coffee and came home with
50 lbs in Salmon fillets it didn’t seem so bad! Here are a few tips and some
helpful advice on narrowing your chance s for a successful Lake Ontario trip.
The Seasons
SPRING ICE OUT
Non Boaters
realistically have a much smaller window of opportunity. However, you can
catch Browns, Steelhead, Salmon varieties and sometimes Lake Trout, in the
spring by donning a pair of waders! “Ice Out Brown” fishing is legendary along
the shores of Lake Ontario. Attracted to the
shallow, warmer water, the forage fish are easily corralled by the predators.
This usually starts in early April – ends in mid-late May (depending on water
temperatures) and is more noted for quantity than the size of the fish. By
casting spoons, small minnow imitations and even using live bait; shore
anglers catch their share of the inshore action. During this time there is an
ample supply of Steelhead and some Browns still in the rivers to make the trip
worth your while! Casting Little Cleo type spoons, Rap alas and even larger
spinners from the lakeshore in a variety of colors can be affective if you are
in a zone of fish. Tributary mouths and shorelines with the most south or west
exposure are usually the warmer water areas. If you are trying bait, bullet or
weighted bobbers are a big help. Sometimes the fish are 10 ft from shore and
other times you may have to wade out and cast your best! Minnows and even at
times night crawlers on a floating jig head will be productive. The key here
is line no heavier than 8 lb test with a 3-4 foot section of Fluorocarbon
leader! These shallow fish are very spooky and line shy. Wade as stealthily as
possible! A good spot is Selkirk Shores State Park. There is a long
fishing pier there, which is near Grindstone Creek and situated between the
Big and Little Salmon Rivers.
Boaters
There are two schools
of thought here. Some guys will have the best luck cruising shorelines looking
for the warmest water and troll Rapalas and small spoons off of Planner Boards
or behind a boat 125 ft or more (without the boards) and make zig zag
patterns. I know others that will just drift with bait and cast lures, using a
drift sock if needed, to make sure they do not spook the fish in shallow
water. If the fish are in close on a calm day, I have seen guys in 12 ft car
toppers with electric motors clean up! That quiet approach to trolling gave
them a big advantage. Some anglers I know even have success drifting and just
sight casting as they move through the shallows.
Boats from Oswego and the Pulaski/Salmon River area
converge on the Nine Mile Nuclear Plant in the spring. The warm water
discharge has been a fish magnet for years.
Post 9/11 security measures have pushed boats out past the “bubble”, but it is
still productive. The plant is a good run from most launches, so you need to
check weather conditions. It is situated out on a point and has little
protection unlike Sodus Bay to the west.
Keep in mind that at
this time of year, most Lake Ontario Trout and Salmon are somewhat grouped
together and feeding on the same bait. It is possible to get Browns, Steelhead
and Salmon on the same lures. I would suggest keeping it on the small size
with Rapalas in the J-10 size or smaller. 3- 4 inches is usually a good all
around length limit this time of year for plugs and smaller even for spoons.
Jack (immature Kings) Salmon are more abundant during this time of year and
tend to mix in with other species.
BOATING SUMMER KINGS
I will usually wait on
my boat trips to Lake Ontario for most of June –into usually mid July. Following reports on Charter
activity via the websites is a good idea. Oswego County Tourism has a reliable
site. As the King Salmon start to really gorge on bait preparing for their
spawning runs, they gradually work their way into larger groups and shallower
water. Once I start hearing that they are catching fish in 150 feet of water
or less, I start paying attention. Ideally, trolling 75-125 ft deep over
100-150 feet of water is my personal sweet spot! I know when the Kings are in
this zone I will usually have my best chance at boating a 30 plus pound fish.
This is usually when they are gorging themselves constantly and a few types of
forage fish become available to them. You can try several methods of trolling
during this window. Large, 10-12 inch Slashers (dodgers) with cut bait rigs
have been the top producers in recent years, Smaller Dodger/Howie Fly
combinations, Dodger/Squid and many types of Spoons such as Northport
Slammers, Northern Kings, Suttons, etc. My personal favorite is the NK
(Northern King) Magnum size in a black front with a green/glow stripe and
raspberry eye and an all white back! “Batman” (our knick name for this lure)
has saved more trips for us and accounts for the majority of the larger fish
we catch over deep water. I will troll these
big spoons on the outskirts of the charter boat pack and at about 1.8-2.0 MPH
tops! This slower, but bigger presentation, fished further back off the
downriggers (about 40 -70 feet) than the dodgers, has proven to be a big fish
magnet! These deeper water fish fight long and hard, make magnificent runs and
are full of color. Make sure you have plenty of line on your reels! I
still use my 20-year-old Diawa 47 LC reels, spooled with 200+ yards of 15 lb
test Magnathin line. They are mounted on Diawa “Great Lakes” 8 ½ ft.
Downrigger rods rated for 10-30 lbs test line.
Anything less is risky, will put undo stress on the fish and won’t hold up in
the long run.
For those without downriggers, Dipsy Divers are a good
alternative for deep water Kings. You can
practice with them by rigging with your choice of spoon or Dodger combination
without the hooks. Keep playing out line over the depth you want your bait to
be trolled at until it bumps bottom. For example: If you are trolling a magnum
spoon and you want it to troll at 70 feet, you may have to let out 150 ft of
line while trolling at 2.5 MPH. Mark the line once you have it calibrated!
By the end of August,
the majority of the Kings have “stacked up” at the mouths of the rivers from
the shoreline out to about 50-75 feet of water. It depends on wind, water
temperatures and the flow of water from the rivers just when they will make
the mad dash into the spawning grounds! When they are hanging in the 50-70
foot depths, I prefer spoons mainly the NK type in either they magnum or #28
size. It can be nerve racking and slow fishing if they congregate along the
shorelines in shallow water (35 ft or less) for any amount of time. They are
spooky and finicky in the shallows. Favorite lures here are J-Plugs! Before
and after the sun is most productive. Trolling behind the boat 100+ feet at
speeds of 2-3.5 MPH is the rule! To me size does matter! I favor the larger
size J-Plugs in Chartreuse or Silver and “Glow in the dark” / Glow stick
models for low light conditions. I also stay away from rattling lures. Just
this past summer we spent over a dozen hours on the water over 2 days, with
huge King Salmon swimming and surfacing (sometimes completely clearing the
water) all around us during that entire time. You couldn’t miss them in
10-20 feet of clear water. They were very
finicky and we were lucky to boat 2 and we lost 2! They will make screaming
runs and will jump more in the shallow water. Keep in mind that as the Kings
near the river mouths, they will normally start to take on darker, duller
colors! If you want “picture fish”, get them in deep water!
Late Summer/Fall
Once the fish are near
or in the estuaries and creek mouths (yes, even smaller tributaries
like The Little Salmon River, Grindstone and Catfish Creeks have some Salmon
running up them) the whole catching game
takes a wild turn. These fish have one thing in mind and it is not eating!
Unlike us, they don’t often stop at the fridge on the way to the bedroom!
Small boats can anchor
in the currents of the larger rivers and fish with J-Plugs, Wiggle Warts or
other vibrating plugs left to cruise the current just off the bottom. These
tactics are more to aggravate the fish and get them to strike in anger, than
to replicate something to eat. Salmon will sometimes get snagged as they try
to bump the lure out of their way. Bank fisherman can achieve success with a
variety of methods. Some are illegal, some are borderline legal and a few are
above board!
Some wader clad fisherman use a technique called blind
snatching. This is usually done in deeper
pools where large concentrations of Kings are schooled up. Regulations change
from year to year and you really need to read the rules. Some years snagging
with treble hooks is allowed in certain areas, but drifting a short shank hook
with no larger than a ½ inch gap, baited with a piece of yarn, sponge or small
egg imitation is usually always OK. You must have at least a 24” leader (I
like a 36”) and a swivel leading to the hook. Pinch on some large split shots
to get the hook down. The idea is to drift it through a hole hoping to catch a
King with his mouth open and some random, quick snaps of the rod may help! It
is legal to keep a Salmon that is hooked in the mouth, but foul hooked fish
must be released. This is not the most sporting way of catching a King, but it
is the way most river fish are landed! This is a VERY common practice in holes
on the Oswego River (below the dam) and on the Salmon River (in pools such as
the Black Hole, Sportsman’s Hole and the Schoolhouse Pool). This is also
accomplished in the “fly fishing only stretches” to a degree.
There are two ways that I have found to be sportier
than the snagging or snatching. One is using
a live shiner right at daybreak at the head of a small run or pool. Hook it
through the tail and keep it just off the bottom. For some reason, when Kings
start to move upstream at daybreak before they start to get spooked and casted
at, they will pick up a shiner, seemingly to get it out of their way. It is
not a big or aggressive hit, so be on your toes. This method has also worked
using a hot pink ½ “ piece of plastic worm, hooked in the middle. I learned
this one rainy day by watching an old timer fight four Kings in a half hour!
He wasn’t snatching, just keeping that piece of pink right in the middle of a
small, narrow run. He was after only the fresh fish than were more silver in
color. I watched him land five or six before he found a suitable one for the
table!
Lastly there is sight snatching. Most guys doing this will use a 10-12’ noodle rod or 9-10 weight fly
rod with a bright orange, pink or chartreuse soft bait like a piece of yarn,
small puff ball or egg fly. This way they can drift that bait right to the
Salmon’s mouth and set the hook.
On the Fly
I have known a few fly rod anglers who say they
legitimately get the Salmon to hit a variety of Salmon flies,
but I have not actually seen this happen.
When they do, it would be to get the intruding fly offering out of their way.
Most anglers in the Fly stretches I have seen have been doing more of the
sight snatching! Bright Steelhead/ Salmon flies, Glo Eggs, etc. are most
widely used. I burned up a cheaper 9-weight outfit in one afternoon
trying to land these behemoths.
I was a total
rookie and had no idea what I had gotten
myself into until my drag gave out and I had smoke coming off my glove
while trying to rim drag the reel! You need a
study, large arbor reel with an excellent drag to even have a fighting chance.
I know a few guys who fish for Stripers and Blues with the long rods that say
the Kings are in a category all by themselves! I agree! Think saltwater fast,
add in current and the determination to get to the spawning grounds and you
have one heck of a fight on your hands!
Drift Boating
This may be a good
idea for those who are not use to wading, don’t know the rivers or haven’t the
equipment. The guides provide the tackle and with the right water conditions,
you can drift most of the river. The downside is that you may get some
negative feedback from the wader crowd as you drift through their holes
and “screw up” their fishing! I once saw it get pretty ugly when a guide
parked his boat right in the middle of about a dozen guys at one pool. After a
few heated verbal exchanges, a few rock warnings and pleading from his
clients, the guide got out of there.
Here are a few more tips to may help make your trip for
Kings more successful:
Charters – a good
place to start is the Oswego County Tourism
website list. Ask for references before
booking. Make sure they fish the way you want to. Some offer no fish/ no pay
deals. Others target Lake Trout and Browns more than Kings. Be sure you are
getting the best deal for the dollar!
Boat Owners – Buy a
lake map or if you have a GPS, buy the appropriate disks. Make sure your
equipment is up to the task and your gas tanks are full!
Although this is a lake, be prepared for almost ocean like conditions.
Even on a calm day you need a high-sided 16’ boat at the least! A good fish
finder with an accurate slow speed (0-5 mph) indicator is a must. Try fishing
just off the main area of boats if you want to target the big ones!
Wading – Felt bottoms
are a must, but cleats are big advantage! These are mostly fast water, rocky
rivers/ creeks and gravel lakesides. Rainfall and reservoir released water can
make or break a trip. Try to double check fishing conditions within12 hours of
your departure or later. Buy a river guide map, check the websites for hot
holes and have an alternate plan. When the runs are in full swing, weekdays
are obviously the best. Don’t be afraid of some of the smaller less crowded
tributaries! Almost every year someone drowns or has a close call on the
rivers during the Salmon run. Make sure you wear your wading belts!
Weather- Obviously you
need to check with local bureaus to get the best picture. Check anticipated
wave heights, wind direction, etc. Remember, this is the most unpredictable
weather in the continental US! A thirty-degree daily temperature swing is the
rule, not the exception. The good news is that if you cannot get out on the
lake, there are plenty of stream opportunities!
Oswego County, NY
offers great King Salmon opportunities compared to other Great Lake areas.
Most of the largest Kings east of the Rockies are caught here. Two
reliable tackle shops that will have just
about anything you could want or need for both boat and wading ventures are
All Seasons (Pulaski) and
Woody’s (Port Ontario). They are helpful,
open early and reasonable on price. Once you hook into one of these monsters,
you too will Hail the Kings!
By Bob Tackels
Over thirty years ago I was on a very frozen Greenwood
Lake along the NJ /NY border. The ice was over a foot thick and there were
snowmobiles (no ATVs out yet), cars, jeeps and pick up trucks all over the
lake. I was ill equipped with a “not so sharp” ice spud, some tip- ups,
a few jigging lures/hooks/ split shot in an old metal “band aid box”, a
plastic “jigging stick” and an ice ladle. I carried my equipment in one bucket
and my bait in another. Without cleats on my feet it was slow going and it
took serious concentration to balance my load while not ending up dumping my
bucket of baitfish! I reached the “hot area” of the lake, dropped my gear and
knew there had to be a better way! I did manage to catch a couple fish before
I lost feeling in my extremities and retreated back to the car before
frostbite set in!
Two winters later, after many experiments and much time
in my grandfather’s workshop, I had it all figured out! My time on the ice
became a pleasurable experience. Even my catch ratio and species variety
increased. People were walking over to me on the ice for advice! I had
created a versatile method of ice fishing for those who have limited access
and shorter seasons than our friends along our northern borders. I am still
using most of that same equipment today with similar results. It is still low
cost and low tech, especially by today’s standards, but continues to get the
job done! Whether you are after Panfish, Bass, Trout or Pike, this system and
it’s techniques will work for you and you will have fun too!
I have had a tendency over the years to fish smaller
lakes and ponds through the ice. I had gravitated this way because they freeze
up faster, stay frozen longer and allow you to cover a good percentage, if not
all, of the where the fish are! They also seem to have less pressure during
the season than the larger lakes. Don’t get me wrong, I like fishing larger
lakes too and they are often very productive!
Before we get into my techniques, let’s go over a few
tips about choosing where to fish. This decision can often make or break an
outing.
Stretch The Season
To maximize your ice
fishing season, key in on bodies of water that freeze over and offer safe ice
earlier than others. These will most likely be either shallower or at higher
elevations than some of the other lakes. Try calling tackle shops or State
Fish and Game agencies in the northern most reach of your area. They will
usually know where the safe ice is. I like a good, solid 4 inches before I
venture out. I have in the past fished over less, have fallen through and over
the years have decided no fish is worth hypothermia or death! Back bays and
coves of larger lakes will often offer safe ice way ahead of the main lake.
Remember that wind will slow down ice formation and sheltered areas of a lake,
especially those that have protection such as rock bluffs, tree lines, etc.
from a south wind, will always freeze first. Beware of springs, creek
channels, shallow rocky points/shoals and wood areas. These structured areas
will normally take longer to freeze over and account for many of the breaking
through the ice horror stories we hear about. Also, be wary of bodies of
water that are known to fluctuate water levels such as reservoirs and some
large manmade lakes. I once drilled a hole through 8 inches of ice only to
find out that they had dropped the water level by almost a foot! That air
space makes ice very unsafe and deadly if you fall through!
Mobile Assault
We all have seen or
been in a nice cozy ice shanty, some with heat and even TV’s with recliners in
front of them. If you live in the “ice belt” areas of Minnesota or Maine, want
a hideaway from the wife on the weekends and are happy with a couple Pike or
Walleye, this is the way to go! I have
found
that fish move under the ice, especially Perch and Trout. I have always liked
the idea of trying to stay on a good school of fish whether in open water or
on the ice. Even the portable tent models are not that portable. I have seen
several on the ice and they never seem to move much once they are set up! I
built my first “ice sled’ over twenty years ago out of ¼ ‘ plywood, 1x2
lengths of pine, a pair of old broken skis and some spare, leftover hardware.
It cost me under $25 to build back then and I still use it today. The sled is
basically a box with skis and a flip up backrest. Hooks at the rear hold a
milk crate in which my bait bucket, ice ladle and strainer are stored. Inside
the box is enough room to carry tip ups, sterno heaters, wood, a safety float
rope, rod stands, 6-7 ice rods, food, thermos, spare clothes, fish finder
etc., and has a separate compartments for tackle, my collapsable wood stove
and short handled gaff! It is small enough to fit on the backseat of a car,
light enough for one person to lift, strong enough for two people to sit or
stand on yet it pulls easily on the ice and lake snow! I strap my auger
securely on top with a bungee and I’m ready to go! In the off season, it acts
as a safe cabinet that holds all my ice equipment, rod sets, auger, etc. I
built my son a bigger, lighter and stronger version this fall at a total cost
of around $100 including the stain and marine polyurethane!
This sled gives me a
sturdy seat to jig from, breaks the wind, makes it easy to bait up or re- rig
and allows me to set up and break camp within a couple minutes if I feel the
need to move! Aside from being extremely durable, it floats and if you lay out
the backrest you can even take a nap on it! It has a corner in my shed and is
ready to go fishing at a moments notice! I couldn’t imagine being on the ice
without it anymore.
The “Ice Rod” Advantage
After experimenting
with just about every tip –up type device on the market, incuding the wind
action and round shaped models, I still prefer my home made Ice Rods! My
reasons are simple. Every tip up model is designed to let out line by rotating
a spool and that means some degree of drag on the line. Years ago while
fishing a reservoir in NJ, there were a bunch of guys that kept yelling ”Tip
–Up!”, but ended up not getting any fish through the hole! As they packed up
to move, they were complaining about how they must be small perch that were
dropping the bait. I put a few of my ‘ice rod” set ups in their abandoned
holes and within an hour had released 6 trout averaging about 18”! They were
still cursing me when they walked off the ice empty handed.
By using a small, jigging
type rod, strike guard, slide bobber and slip sinker set up with an open bail
on a spinning reel, THERE IS NO DRAG! The lightest biter has no idea he’s on
the line. It is just like drift fishing in a boat over suspended fish. Plus
the rod and reel is much more fun than hand lining braided Dacron line! By
using mono line, your bait stays livelier and because the slide bobber and
line are above the hole, any wind keeps the bait moving. If by some chance the
bail flips or a strike guard malfunctions, your rod is safe in a stand that
will not flip over into the hole and can act on your behalf (with a correctly
set drag) while you are getting to the hole. You do not have to worry about
line getting tangled on the ice because you are reeling it in! As long as you
keep the hole clear of ice it is virtually fool proof. Because you want to
keep the hole open, you are checking baits more often and moving around more
than if you were just sitting and waiting for a flag! End result: less missed
fish, more hook ups and much more fun getting the fish up to the hole! The
weighted slide bobber is held in place near the rod tip by either a paperclip
or a small button. Once the fish trips the strike guard the bobber falls into
the hole (breaking any thin skim ice) and the line just flies off the reel and
through it. I use regular, round, weighted, orange cork spring bobbers. I
drill out the plastic center spring mechanism and super glue in a piece of
aquarium air tubing that extends 1/8-1/4 out each end. Even if that freezes to
the line the fish is just swimming around with a bobber like in open water.
This did happen once and I spotted my bobber UNDER the ice about 30 feet from
the hole on my way there! We all got a laugh at the sight of that!
I will still use some
modified, old wooden tip ups that I have in my box if it is brutally cold or
windy. I test the spools before I set them to make sure they have the least
amount of drag possible. Most of the time, if conditions are like that, you
don’t want to be fishing anyway!
I have made most of my
“Ice Rods” out of broken or old rods. I have bought a few, but you need to
make sure that they are sturdy enough to lift a big Bass or Trout out of a
hole and that the guides, especially the tip, are large enough diameter that
they will not freeze up. Any small reel with a good drag system is fine. I use
my older ultra-light Trout reels most of the time. Remember you are not doing
any casting!
The
Rod Stand
This is the most
important part of the set up. After several proto-types and experiments, I
came up with the best stand/ holder for the Ice Rod set up. It is made of 2
10” x 1” and a 16” x 1” galvanized metal flat bar. Bend the ends of the 10”
bars ½ inch down and drill holes in the middle. Make 3/8 or 1/4'’ holes to
accommodate ¼” stainless screws, lock washers and wing nuts. Drill a like hole
at the end of the 16” inch bar and another hole 10’ down the bar. Bend the bar
into a slight upward curve to a 90 degree or so angle with the last couple
inches straight. Drill one last hole at the end of the curved bar. Use the
screws and wing nuts to put the three pieces together and add a 3-4” piece of
3” diameter PVC pipe at the curved end hole.
This stand will
collapse easily, take much abuse and will not tip over or slip through your
8-9 inch auger hole in the ice. Test the stand and the rod by setting it up at
the end of a table. Put a 5-10 lb weight on your line hanging off the end of
the table. It should not tip if set up correctly. A properly set drag adds to
the stability.
All the materials can
be bought at a Home Depot and cost about $4-$5 a stand! They will last you a
lifetime.
Make sure you put your
name and address on the PVC to conform to most state’s fish and game laws
about “unattended ice fishing devices”. There are similar stands on the market
today that are copies. They are ALL junk, cost more and do not perform as well
or will last as long!
Jigging Rods
There are so many
types on the market now that it is crazy! I was at Cabelas in Harrisburg last
weekend and counted over 15 different ice jigging rod and reel combos on
display! Some were as whippy as a wet noodle and others were like broom
handles! Again, I make my own. I look for a piece of an old rod that has a
soft tip and a strong enough butt end to lift up a 5 lb fish. I then add a
spring bobber to the top guide. I make the spring bobbers out of a bass guitar
string (about 4-6 “ section) and a ½” diameter single footed guide. I wrap and
superglue the guitar string onto the guide and then glue/wrap the same piece
onto the top of the rod and eye guide. I then paint the spring bobber guide
fluorescent orange or green to make it easier to pick up the slightest
nibbles. By doing this I can use the rod with the spring bobber to jig tiny
ice dots for Crappie or use it without the line going through the spring
bobber guide for Bass or Trout lures like Rapala swimming jigs or larger
Kastmaster type lures. When using ice flies or other tiny offerings, I will
often use a small cork bobber. This also lets me keep the presentation at a
constant depth for the finicky feeders while using finesse baits such as
mousies or small mealworms on a # 12 dry fly hook!.
Presentation Tips
Keep in mind that
larger Trout, Walleye, and Bass will not always go after a minnow type bait.
Walleye will react to baitfish best in
low light conditions when
they have the upper hand in an ambush. I always hook a bait either behind the
dorsal fin or in the upper tail area while ice fishing. I usually keep one
predrilled hole available to try jigging in. During high sun hours I have put
2 mealworms or 10 grubs on a teardrop jig and caught big fish. When I am using
“mousies”, wax worms, etc. and I know big fish are in the area, I will put
several baits on a hook and twitch the bait hard for a minute or so to get the
scent going. This works great on Walleye and Trout especially. While jigging
with small “Swedish Pimple” type jigs, I will often tie an ice fly or dot jig
6-8 inches above the jig and try a different bait on it. This will increase
your odds and works excellent on Yellow Perch! If you are fishing for stocked
trout through the ice, try fathead minnows and Powerbait on a teardrop jig off
your ice rod! No other weight, just that teardrop jig. I will also use
Powerbait products to tip off jigs too. It does work great for Trout and
Crappie.
High Tech Help
Electronics are a big
plus through the ice. I prefer any portable flasher type unit over anything
else. They will help you stay on fish, find structure, suspended fish and will
not run down the battery as much as LCR’s etc. With that said, I know of a few
anglers that swear by their Bottom Line “Fishing Buddy” through the ice! The
flasher I use can follow a teardrop jig on it’s way to the bottom and can show
me if there are weeds, hard or soft bottom, etc. just by the sensitivity
adjustment for the transducer. Most are very simple, have fish alarms and can
run a few trips on a rechargeable type or 2 lantern batteries. They are
durable come in a small tough package. There are even a couple on the market
that are the size and shape of a flashlight!
I have seen the video
screen models used in the last few years, but my attitude is what next? Heat
seeking lures? I just can’t bring myself to go there in open or hard water.
However they do work, especially when Walleye are finicky and you can watch
there reaction to different presentations and “dial in” with the right jig.
Drilling the Holes
I have used both gas
and hand augers. There is no doubt that regardless of your physical condition,
fishing method, etc., gas augers are faster and less strenuous to use.
However, in the lower reaches of Ice Fishing Land where I mostly fish these
days, the ice rarely gets over 8 –10 inches. With an 8 inch bit hand auger
that is sharp, I can breeze through holes! A gas auger will spook fish to a
degree, especially in shallow water. I use to drill my holes, have a cup of
coffee, relax and then start baiting up. With a sharp hand auger, I would
drill, bait up after each hole and catch fish right away!
If you do go with a
gas auger, do not go with a smaller, lighter HP or CC motor. Yes, they are
lighter, but they will not hold up, have a tougher time in deeper ice and
aren’t your best deal for the dollar. It is worth the extra weight and dollars
to buy a premium model. Forget the electric models! They are not worth trying
at any price. They have limited time on the battery and they tend to wear out
fast.
If you are going to go out in freezing temps to catch
fish, get some fresh air and try to avoid the later stages of “cabin fever”,
you should at least try and have some success. The tips previously mentioned
will work for anyone venturing on the ice and maybe bring some new perspective
to hard water angling.
Fish safe and be prepared with adequate safety
equipment, such as a throw able floatation device, 100 ft of rope and a
warming blanket. Try and practice catch and release. Remember to take a child
fishing whenever possible and that family fishing is fun too!
Back to Top
-Bob Tackels
Beltsville After Dark
Tactics that work on one of NE PA’s
toughest lakes
It has been nearly fifteen years
since the first time my boat slid off the trailer into Beltsville Lake one
bright spring afternoon. Several disappointed and fishless anglers were
milling around the boat ramp area complaining about how poor the fishing was
and “how they’re just must not be that many fish in there!” Having just moved
into the area, I knew nothing about the lake aside from the nondescript map
posted near the ramp area and that I could use my large outboard to scout it
out. I spent the next few hours cruising around and looking at my trusty
Lowrance. I had copied by freehand the map at the boat ramp and was filling
in the empty space as I went along.
Having “cut my teeth” on the deepwater reservoirs and
lakes of NY and NJ, the main lake area of Beltsville seemed almost familiar.
Plenty of deep water, quick drop offs, a dam, schools of suspended bait and
lots of fish on the screen! After a few unsuccessful and uneventful trips to
the lake, it dawned on me that these fish had to be active sometime. I solved
the mystery as the light bulb above my head lit up! Beltsville after dark!
About the lake
Beltsville Lake is located in Carbon County where the NE
PA Turnpike extension intersects Rt. 209 near Lehighton. Located within
the nearly 3,000 acres of Beltsville State Park, the lake covers 949
acres, has twenty miles of shoreline and can basically be broken down into two
sections: the “main lake area” and “the no wake zone’. As an Army Corps of
Engineers Flood Control Project, Beltsville is long, narrow and has depths of
over one hundred twenty feet. As with most state parks, Beltsville is an
extremely popular destination that is often filled to capacity by mid morning
during the summer. With a large sand beach swimming area, boat rentals and
adequate launch area parking, Beltsville has become a haven for water-skis,
jet skis and pleasure boats into the mid twenty-foot range. During the summer
season, small craft take refuge in the no wake zone area that largely consists
of two narrow channels. The main lake can warrant small craft warnings by mid
morning due to the heavy boat traffic, designated ski areas and narrowness of
the lake.
Beltsville has been stocked consistently for years with
generous amounts of fingerling Trout, Walleye, Striped Bass and even Musky.
Small Mouth Bass rule here over the Largemouth, although there is a fair
population of lunker Large mouths in the lake. Channel Cats, Bullheads and
Carp cruise the bottom and there are plenty of Yellow Perch and assorted Pan
fish.
The lake has a very healthy population of forage fish.
Large schools of Alewife can be found throughout the lake. Shiners, small
perch and stocked fingerlings, especially Trout, can often be seen getting
chased onto the flats and along the shorelines. With the vast food source that
swims, crawls and jumps into Beltsville Lake there is no mystery to the number
of quality fish in this body of water! Because of the pressure it receives
through most of the year and the abundance of food, these fish are no
pushovers! Under the calm and cover of darkness, this lake really turns on!
Where to Start
Beltsville can be divided into two sections. The main
lake area that is easiest accessible by the larger main launch area near the
State Park entrance and the “no wake zone” area which is accessible easiest
from the smaller Preachers Camp Launch area. Both areas will yield a variety
of species year round, but the main lake area is most productive in the warmer
months, especially for Trout, Small mouth, Stripers and Walleye.
The main lake area of Beltsville has two characteristics
that most PA anglers may not be used to. Quick drop offs and two thermo
clines are found mostly on the deeper main lake section. If you are looking
for Trout or Walleye, this is significant. A good portion of the main lake has
depths over 100 ft. You may catch Browns and Walleye in the upper thermo
cline, for example at thirty to forty five feet and also at the lower thermo
cline at sixty to eighty feet. This is the portion of lake near the dam.
Suspended bait will be the tip off as to what thermo cline has the best oxygen
level and action. I have seen both produce at the same time. During the spring
and late fall this is not as much of a factor. Just keep in mind that those
fish you are marking at eighty feet could be a few different species.
Because of the numerous, steep drop offs, much of the
feeding on the main lake is done in a suspended fashion over deep water and
just off some of the steeper ledges where bait can become corralled easy. Many
times Trout and Walleye will push bait up to the Striper and Small mouth range
and follow the action on top while feeding on the injured or dead bait that
slips down to their level. Other key areas are any narrow flats or points that
lead to drop offs. The ridges of these flats can be very productive,
especially for Stripers.
The “no wake zone” area, which is much shallower than the
main lake, can be a real challenge. There is a wider, deeper beginning to this
section that eventually splits into two relatively narrow channels. The
Preachers Camp Launch side has a more even, gradual slope to the main channel,
while the opposite side has more of a jagged, steeper drop. If the fish are up
in the area, the far side of the ramp area, up to where the channels fork off,
can be very productive. If you are fishing this area and not getting results,
try up into either channel a couple hundred yards past the split. I have had a
few occasions where fish, especially mid sized stripers, have chased bait pods
out of the deeper main section up into the more narrow channels.
I will always try to arrange to be on the lake either an
hour or so before dark or stay an hour or so after sunrise. During those
windows of time I will often troll or move often looking for signs of active
fish. Trout and Stripers will often crash bait on the surface during the first
or last light of the day.
From ice out to mid May and from late September to mid
November, Beltsville receives less pressure and anglers can have success in
daylight. The early and late in the day rule still applies.
Best Methods
Anchored
The more successful anglers, especially those in search
of the big Stripers, will swear by anchoring up and live lining bait along one
of the drop offs, channels or points. With a pair of binoculars you can
usually spot a row of anchored stern lights indicating a recently productive
area. The two most popular areas are within eyesight of either launch ramp
area. If you are patient, have lively bait, great night vision and can keep
quiet, this may be for you. Keep your stern pointed at the drop off and spread
cast your offerings. If you are fishing with a buddy, try dropping a line off
the side of the boat, straight down and just off the bottom. Position it
opposite your stern light. Sometimes fish will be drawn to that light and the
bait around it. A slip sinker heavy enough to keep it in place and a 3-foot
leader is key. If the bite is slow, try top water or diving lures starting
from the bow in shallower water out to where your bait is. Slow, but erratic
action on top water and diving plugs is key. This works well for fish that
have continued a chase for bait up beyond the drop off.
Drifting
If you are new to fishing deep water, this can be can be
your best bet. On the main section of lake it can yield interesting results.
Depending on wind direction and speed, a drift anchor may be necessary. Try
paralleling the shoreline out about 40 to 50 yards for starters. This should
put out by most ledges or points. Look for suspended bait schools or
individual fish on your locator and start drifting. If the action slows try
jigging the bait, clipping tail fins, dropping to lighter leaders or changing
depths a few feet up or down. Bottom bouncing rigs can be affective when
drifting the ridges of drop offs and flats. Vertical jigging with Crippled
Herrings or Kastmasters can also turn fish on. Paddle- tailed swimming jigs in
white or Trout patterns are very affective for Stripers.
Trolling
Yes, trolling in the dark! At Beltsville, trolling can be
the most effective way of getting fish into the boat. Because there is so much
suspended water feeding going on here, it is a great way to find active fish.
Trout, Walleye and especially Stripers will turn on after the crowds leave.
They will also have a tendency to chase bait out of their comfort zones. Do
not be surprised to catch more than one species off the same downrigger
setting when cruising the upper thermo cline or while flat lining. These fish
are spooky and I have found the best method to be plugs or swimming jigs
pulled no closer than 40 feet behind your weight. The closer to the surface,
the farther back. I will troll my bigger Striper plugs 100-125 ft behind the
boat when I am flat lining. Speed should depend on the action of the lures. I
will usually run between 1.5 and 3 mph. Try power trolling (holding the rod in
your hand and making erratic jerks with your rod) with crank baits or Swim
baits if fish are active on the surface.
Bait
Alewife (Lake Herring) is the main forage fish for most
inhabitants of Beltsville. Small Trout are always a favorite of Stripers and
most of the other predators, especially for the month or so after they are
stocked. Neither is readily available at local bait shops. Most of Beltsville
‘s “night crew” use umbrella nets and a submersible light to net their own
Herring on the lake. Small Trout (Rainbows seem to hold up and work best) can
usually be purchased at one of the local hatcheries if arrangements are made
ahead of time. If you plan on only bait fishing, some large and small Shiners
can be a good back up. Make sure you have a quality aerating system that keeps
the water cool onboard. Both Trout and Herring need high oxygen and cool
water. A model called The Minnowmizer has been my favorite for years. It is
very portable and can keep bait for a couple days if you need to. For
Stripers, try Trout in the 6-8 inch range. I highly recommend Fluorocarbon
leaders of 36” to 48” and circle hooks for both baits.
Lures
The best plugs are anything resembling a small
Rainbow/Brown Trout or an Alewife. I will troll 4-8 inch soft and hard bodied
plugs of quality for Stripers. Try wrapping a few of your rainbow finish plugs
or swim baits in a Trout fillet and then put them in a plastic container in
the fridge for a couple days before you use them. It really does make a
difference, especially with soft baits and swimming jigs. Alewife imitators,
such as Storm’s chrome finish Thin Fin, work well for just about everything.
White buck tails with a flash of green or yellow Mylar can be productive at
times. Vertical jigging with Crippled Herrings or teaser tailed Kastmasters
works also. I also drop a couple lures I intend to use in the live well with
the bait I have chosen. The Trout or Herring smell from the bait will work as
well or better than any store-bought scent!
Tackle
For trolling I prefer 8 ft. Med Action downrigger
rods with line counter level wind reels that have a great drag system. I will
spool them up with a small diameter or fluorocarbon line that yields little
stretch. For Stripers I will use a 4 ft section of 20 # test fluorocarbon
leader off a premium barrel swivel, for both bait and trolling. If you were
targeting Trout, Walleye, etc., I still would use a 3- 4-foot fluorocarbon
leader of 8-10# test. These fish are definitely line shy. If you try heavier
line it will greatly reduce your strike ratio.
For casting I prefer a medium tapered
7 foot spinning rod rated for 10-15 # test. For casting bait or lures
after Stripers, I prefer a “bait runner” type reel with 10- 12 pound test
line, which is either fluorocarbon or a light green hue, such as Tectan
Premium. Make sure the reel has a great drag system. I have lost a few monster
Stripers due to drag problems on the 10 # test line. For Trout or Walleye, I
will spool up with 6-8# test on an 8 ft rod that has 6-12 # test rating.
When fishing bait, suspended or otherwise remember that a
softer rod tip will keep the bait alive longer and moving more naturally. The
clicker mode on a level wind reel or the bait runner feature on a spinning
reel allows fish to run with a bait virtually drag free. I will often manually
flip the bail also. Trout and Stripers will often mouth or turn a bait before
swallowing it. Give them a little time before setting the hook, especially
when using small trout for bait.
Here are some of my observations about the fish in
Beltsville and what to expect.
Brown/Rainbow Trout- You are likely to catch
mostly Browns. I have caught a couple over 10 pounds, many between 5 and 10
lbs. More importantly, I saw my largest Brown, outside of Lake Ontario; break
off a fellow angler’s line that was in the 18 to 20 pound class! Fish the “no
wake zone” area early spring, late fall and winter. The deeper main lake fish
late spring to early fall.
Small mouth – Fish over 5 pounds are not uncommon, my
largest was 7 pounds. The main lake always produces the larger fish. Try the
Dam area in May and October.
Largemouth – While not the dominant bass in the
lake, they hold their own. I have seen several 7- 9 pound fish on beds and
have weighed a couple over 6 pounds. Main Lake coves and the “no wake zone” in
the upper reaches of the channels.
Walleye – Fat 4-6 pound fish are available; the
largest I have seen was an 8.5-pound pre-spawner. Fish the flats near the
power lines on the main lake to the “no wake zone” channels in early spring
and late fall.
Musky –I have caught them by accident, and 30”was
my limit! I have seen a few in the 40” plus range. Fish wherever you do not
see me!
Striped Bass – I have personally seen a couple 40
pound fish caught and several in the mid to upper 30 pound range. Several year
classes are identifiable by size. My best outing was 14 fish in the 8-15 pound
range while trolling pre-dawn hours wearing a snowmobile suit in late
October! My largest was 24 pounds and I have lost a few monsters close to the
boat! Beware of the marker buoys near the ramp, ski and no wake zone areas.
The big Stripers seem to know exactly where they are! The” no wake zone” area
is productive in spring and fall. In between, fish the points and drop offs of
the main lake or troll over deep water no further than 20 ft down. I have
never trolled up a Striper in the lake below 25 ft. I have caught them 50 feet
deep on bait in the channels. The monster Stripers are lazy and will eat
bigger and fewer meals if possible. Larger Trout, 8-10” fished near the bottom
along the ridges of flats or along channel drop offs are most effective way to
fish for these behemoths. You will cut down on your bite ratio, but you will
only need to hook one to make it worth the time!
Lake Trout- I have caught only two, have seen only
a few others, but know that there must be more and larger ones in there than
what I have witnessed. Your typical deepwater trolling/bottom bouncing is
tough here due to the humps and ridges in this lake. I honestly think that
most anglers do not target them, including me. Maybe that will be the next
challenge…
By the way…
Since Beltsville is heavily patrolled by the state, make
sure you have all your required safety equipment on board, proper
registration, boat numbering and especially make sure your bow and stern
lights are working properly. Double check the regulations for gathering your
own bait and make sure you have a receipt for any Trout that you may have
purchased for bait. It is also a good idea to have a spotlight on board and to
wear a headlamp. A Salmon size or saltwater landing net is also a good thing
to have on board.
Beltsville is relatively easy to navigate at night. Most
of the shorelines consist of higher tree lines. While it may not be as large
or as well known as Raystown or Wallenpaupack,
Beltsville is a quality fishery that should not be
overlooked. See you when the sun goes down!
Fish safe, follow the regulations and practice catch and
release! In a lake like Beltsville, anything is possible! Remember, family
fishing is fun too and take a child fishing every chance you can!
Beach Bums

We arrived an hour before sunrise with high hopes of
completing a mission that was long overdue. We did our preparation intensely
over the previous days and I was actually feeling one level above confident.
The tide, wind, moon phase and water temperature all spelled STRIPER in
capital letters! As we pulled into the main parking area at Sandy Hook, I soon
realized that I wasn’t the only person who had this feeling! Most of the lot
was full with SUVs and trucks bearing roof rod racks, bumper rod/ cooler racks
and tailgate cooler carriers! As we walked onto the beach, I had flashbacks of
“Saving Private Ryan “ and a number of other old D-Day movies started racing
through my head. I looked over at my son and saw his jaw had dropped down to
his belt line! With all the rods positioned skyward, anglers at the ready
wearing lighted headgear, and all the glow sticks and lanterns along the surf
line, the seen was surreal. Beach carts, coolers and chairs were behind the
front lines looking like artillery batteries! Undaunted, we pushed forward and
found a piece of beach left vacant by a couple of wandering plug fisherman!
Reel Men of the weathered, old salt variety were everywhere chomping on
cigars, scratching their heads and cursing at the sea! No fish or bent rods
were visible anywhere.
I soon realized that the wind was blowing hard at my
back as I made the first cast. As the sunlight increased, so did the wind and
our anticipated high tide was blown back to the sea with it. The scratching of
heads, cursing and chomping increased too! Soon many of the old salts
retreated back to the parking lot. My son was here to catch his first Striper
in the surf. After departing in the middle of the night and driving for over 2
hours, we decided to brave the sand storms, 25 mph wind and complete the
mission. Within the second hour we were “high- fiving” as his first surf
Striper, a slot fish, was being released. We started unburying our gear from
the shifting sand after the second slot sized Striper was released. We were
alone on the beach by now, but the mission was accomplished. We were
sandblasted and missing a hat, but satisfied!
Over the years I have fished the surf in most of the
states from Maine to Florida. It has never been my forte since I have always
lived inland. However, regardless of the when, where and “what for”, I can’t
ever remember not catching fish. Here are a few tips that have bailed me out
of some bleak situations over the years.
The Seasons
I group fishing
in the surf into Spring, Summer and Fall. I’ve fished for Stripers into the
winter with snow on the dunes and have caught fish, but it is a challenge and
spotty at best.
Spring
often is the most productive time of year and can start as
early as opening day of Trout season in April or as late as early May,
depending on water temperature. Until the water hits around 45 plus degrees it
makes no sense putting on the waders. Keep an eye out for the first few above
average temperature days and try daylight high tide fishing if possible. This
is when you will see the Stripers close and often cruising the wash. Inlet
fishing is always best in mid to late spring.
Summer can be a challenge and in July and August I
look for calm, foggy mornings and full moon nights. What Stripers are around
our waters are rarely caught during the day. Rays, Kingfish, Fluke, Sharks and
sometimes Blues are what you can normally expect on day beaches in summer.
Obviously, look for a stretch of beach that has the least amount of
non-fishing activity on it. Jetties, reefs or any natural depression or breaks
are good bets.
Fall is tricky. Early fall can yield more
Blues and Weakfish than any other time of year. By mid to late October,
Stripers should start dominating catches once the water temps start to drop a
little. Most Fall fish tend to be much heavier per inch than in the Spring.
The 2 weeks before and after Thanksgiving have always been a favorite time for
me if the fish are there. The summer crowds have thinned out by then and the
fish are on a last binge. A slight NE wind with an incoming tide is always a
great idea. First and last light are prime.
Location
In the tri-state
area, I am partial to 4 locations.
The inlet and
beach at Jennings Beach, Fairfield, CT is a fun year round fishery
for all species. If they are not on the beach, you can try walking to the
inlet or jetty. Many big fish have come out of the moderately fished area. It
is very accessible and less than 5 minutes of I95. There is long reef 200 +
yards or so that you can walk out on at low tide or cast near at high tide. It
is a fish magnet. Stripers are in the area year round in better than average
numbers. The inlet yields stripers all summer.
The Point at Montauk, LI. It is a pain to get
there via the LIE, but can be worth the trip. There can be rough surf at times
so bring the big rods. With the cost of gas and the long ride, bring some
friends! Best in mid spring and mid-late fall, this is the beach where
trophies have consistently come from. The beasts gorge on bait in The Sound
and round The Point. A friend of mine beached 3 Stripers over 30 lbs. the
Friday after Thanksgiving at The Point. He walked on the beach with 2 rods and
4 eels at 4pm and was out of bait by 6pm! That is possible here.
Sandy Hook, NJ has
long been the Mecca for
Striper fisherman from all over. With the Hudson, Raritan and
Shrewsbury rivers, Raritan Bay, etc. all close by, no wonder it is a hotspot.
It still amazes me that with all the Stripers, Weaks, Blues and Fluke caught
in Raritan Bay each year that any make it to the ocean beaches! Fisheries
surveys show that Stripers from upper New England south to the Carolinas have
journeyed to and through Sandy Hook each year. It is also one of the most
heavily fished stretches of beach on the coast!
Island Beach State Park, NJ has been a favorite
for years. Those who have four wheel drive vehicles can drive on the beach.
When the fish are hitting, it is a carnival like spectacle. You see some
lavish setups at Island Beach. Tricked out beach buggies, angler friendly
Escalades with rod /cooler racks and spinner caps are a common sight! For some
reason, some of the biggest surf Blues I have ever seen have come from this
stretch of beach. The south end of the stretch has always been the most
productive for some reason.
Any accessible beach or inlet can be productive at the
right time. Structure is important to Stripers. Jetties, rock piles, potholes
or depressions along the beach can hold fish. Look for the highest area of
beach and start there. South of jetties and break walls has often bailed me
out. Sea walls, such as the one in Sea Bright, NJ have been clam
seeking Striper magnets at the right times of year, especially May and
October.
Lures
From the beach, a variety of lures will catch fish. The
best plugs are easy to cast and have an aft weight built in. If there are not
many Blues around, I will always tie on a 2-3 foot fluorocarbon leader of
20-40 lb. test. I sturdy quick snap can make lure changes easier. If the Blues
are around a small diameter braided wire leader is a must unless you like
sacrificing lures. Buy quality well built lures that can hold up to getting
smashed in the jaws of a bear trap! To gain distance in your cast, experiment
with drilling a hole and adding some pencil lead or BB’s. A little weight can
make a big difference. Make sure to seal up the holes. Rear treble or single
hooks are worth having some Mylar or buck tail teasers on them.
Top water baits
I still like the
old Atom plugs made of hard plastic or the wooden pencil poppers. Chug Bugs,
Knuckleheads, etc. all do the trick. I have a customized large Zara Spook that
has been working well lately. The bottom of this lure I have painted crimson
red metal flake. Just make sure they push some water, cast easily and have
strong sharp hooks. A medium to fast erratic retrieve has always worked well
for me. Try tying a non weighted rigged tube as a dropper a few feet off the
back of a big top water plug. We have actually had doubles on of both Stripers
and Blues doing this!
Plugs
Bombers, Redfins, Big Mac’s, Spro's etc., will all work
well. Storm’s Thin Fin, although harder to cast, work well in the silver /blue
or silver /green larger size. Just make sure the hooks are strong. Deep divers
like Storms Big Mac are deadly off jetties or around inlets. Size depends on
the bait in the area. Dark days, dark patterns!
Swim Baits
Storm's offering
is one of the best and economical. Berkley makes a Power swim bait, The Pogy,
and Cabelas’ Living Eye series are also
excellent. Swim baits are fast becoming a favorite because of the versatility
you can present them, they are easy to cast and will attract a variety of
fish! Paddle tails have the most action and cause the most vibration. Castaic
makes a very detailed and expensive bait that is half plug and half paddle
tail. I spent the $25 on one up in Montauk only to have it get taken by a
rogue Jumbo Blue!
Metal
It is hard to
improve upon time-tested favorites such as Hopkins, Avas and Kastmasters.
However, try a large Crippled Herring with a teaser tail! They work excellent.
Always have a variety of size and weights ready to go. I’ve seen a ¼ ounce
make a big difference!
Bait
Clams
have been the hot bait for Stripers year round along the Jersey
coast. Put a big chunk on (about the size of a plum) and bury the hook. Always
buy fresh over frozen and be leery of the “still in the shell” variety. Many
times the clam dries out in the shell. Fresh shucked in a container with the
juice are best. Sometimes a float rig will increase hits.
Eels
rule the night fishing hours. For some reason, the majority of
the bigger Stripers are caught at night on Eels. Be mindful to really let the
fish run and take the bait while fishing with Eels. Bring a burlap bag or a
grip cloth to making handling these slick willies easier. Try a very slow
retrieve with Eels too.
Blood/Sand worms were my favorite Striper bait,
especially in colder months, for a long time. They still work great,
especially for smaller or slot sized stripers. Use a smaller hook than normal
with the worms and a double hook float rig will help in non-clear water.
Cut bait, a
favorite in the LI Sound and CT shores works fine unless there are crabs and
rays around. I would check a cut bait often or even
fish a very slow retrieve. Avoid tailpieces. If Blues are around, bring extra
bait and be prepared to catch mostly Blues over Stripers. Bunker and Mackerel
work best.
Live bait
is always easier to fish off piers and jetties than the surf.
Herring and medium sized bunker are excellent when the conditions are right.
That “bait runner” feature on your reel will be well worth the investment. I
watched a guy at the Pt. Pleasant jetty live line large lake Alewives. He was
catching fish when no one else was on lures, clams and cut bait.
Equipment
You want to stay
as mobile as you can when being a Beach Bum. A good-sized Surf bag that has
tubes for your lures, pockets for weights, hooks, leaders, a pair of pliers,
tape measure/ scale and you are set.
Rod
holders are commonly made of durable PVC pipe. These surf staffs are OK,
but I prefer to duct tape them to a 4-41/2 ft piece of Rebar or a heavy gauge
aluminum rod. This way you get some added height and can pound them into jetty
crevices or hard beachfronts.
Reels
Solid, large
capacity spinning reels with large disc drags and aluminum spools are a must.
Figure on 200 yards of 20 lb. test as a minimum. You can scale down if you use
a small diameter premium line such as Magnathin or Cabelas’ Salt Striker line.
If you are bait fishing, it is hard to beat a
“bait runner” model reel. These reels allow a fish to run with the bait
from the second it takes it with little or no drag effect. When you are ready
to set the hook, turn the handle to disengage the free spool mode and you are
ready for battle. Shimano for years had monopolized this market, but now less
expensive and durable reels by Okuma, Diawa and other manufactures are
available. If you are a lure fisherman, any lightweight or graphite bodied
reel is worth looking at. For years I used a lightweight Shimano 100%
graphite model which never tired my arms out. As long as it has a good drag
and retrieve ratio you are set.
Spare spools are great to have as a backup and they will
allow you to scale up or down. depending on your quarry.
Rods
I have seen Beach
Bums that feel the need to use 11 and 12 foot rods while fishing bait in
the surf. They are usually heavy and awkward to transport and are
usually more muscle than you need. A 9 or 10 ft, 2 piece rod that is capable
of casting 6 ounces of lead will be sufficient for most anglers. Try to keep
the tip from being too stiff. It will decrease any live bait movement and make
you feel like you are using a sawed off telephone pole on smaller fish! There
should be one guide per foot (approximately) on the rod. This will give
better casting range and less wear and stress on the line.
While lure fishing, I like using an 8-9 foot rod that is
lightweight and has a tip that will allow a plug to move as intended, but also
allows me to cast a 3 ounce Hopkins a long distance. Specialty “plug rods”
have little hard ware or hand cushioning, but are usually lightweight and made
well. Be careful not to purchase too stiff a tip on your a rod. The butt end
is the working end.
Waders
The lighter the
better. A 3mm pair of neoprenes or a pair of breatheable waders are perfect.
I like the bootfoot type for the surf with a lug sole bottom. Felt bottoms
aren’t the best idea if you can have a choice. If you frequent jetties, a pair
of cleats such as “Korkers” are a wise investment. Just make sure you wash
EVERYTHING off once you get home.
Surf Fishing can be a very economical and fun way to
catch fish. You won’t get seasick, you can go anytime you want, you will meet
“interesting people” and get more exercise than sitting in a boat. Check with
local tackle shops for hot areas, baits etc. They are usually more reliable
than web reports or hotlines because they have to face you in person! You can
catch Stripers from Maine to the Carolinas. Every state has their special run
of fish. Depending on where and when it could be small Croakers , Stripers or
jumbo Drums. I have even caught Mackeral from the surf in Myrtle Beach, SC.
You will never know what is out there beyond the breakers until you make the
first catch!
Reel Kids
I recently attended a local fishing contest
sponsored by a local radio station and sports outfitter. Last year there were
about 125 children registered to participate and this year the entries swelled
to over 200!
It was a huge success, everyone had a great time and
to me it was a sign of hope for our favorites pastime’s future! One of my
favorite TV fishing show hosts, Jerry Mc Kinnis dedicates every show to his
Dad, “who always had time to take me fishing”. I have made that dedication
my creed in life. It was nice to see that if only for a day, over 200 Dad’s,
Mom’s and Grandparents found the time. It was obvious the children appreciated
the efforts. That morning on the pond I heard only one raised voice and one
threat of punishment. Something about having that magic wand in your hand
seems to bring patience and understanding to even the most stressed out
parent.
In today’s world of 300 TV channels, the Internet,
DVDs, etc., parents have endless amounts of help to occupy their children’s
time. Watching a soccer or baseball game shows support, but does little in the
“life’s lessons” or “what’s going on in your life” departments. Children have
more stress these days too! Peer pressure, competition and the overload of
required information to survive in today’s environment are staggering for us
adults, let alone children. A quiet morning on a pond, stream or lake with a
container of worms and a couple rods with bobbers can help form bonds, reveal
information and insight that might otherwise get lost in the shuffle. Here are
some tips that can get children interested in being REEL KIDS, keep them
interested and get the most out of your quality time together.
From the Beginning
My daughter started fishing at 3 years old and my son was
a little over 2 years old. We started out with short trips to a local pond
that had plenty of hungry Bluegills! I explained EVERYTHING and always
answered every question no matter how many times it was asked! They held the
pushbutton rods and I carried their arms through the motions of casting. They
each had their own equally matched rods and personalized bobbers that they got
to choose. I explained what was happening above and below the surface, made up
games regarding moving the bobber, etc. In short, I made them ask questions,
kept it interesting and made sure they had fun. “Prizes” were given to the
biggest and most fish of the outing (which were never the same child)! My
daughter still enjoys using her first PINK rod and reel and my son refuses to
let go of his first rod, saying that he wants to give it to his son. It is
important to keep reminding them that this is their equipment and they are
responsible for it from the start. My kids never poked the rod tips where they
didn’t belong, kept the rods clean and always made sure the hook was secured
when they were done fishing. Here are some beginner tips.
How Old?
If they can walk, talk and sit still for an hour watching
a video, then they are ready to watch a bobber! Most children are ready at 3
years. Increase the amount of time you fish, as they get older. Every
child
and parent relationship is different, but if the first time out is a
nightmare, wait a few months and try again.
What to Use
A colorful or “cool”, inexpensive, spin cast rod and
reel combo is your best bet. Just make sure they have a decent drag system.
The shorter in size the better. This way they can at least try to cast on
their own. Replace the existing line with a better quality, lighter line. Buy
some bobbers that are small enough to get pulled under by a small pan fish!
You’re your children customize the bobbers with different colors faces, names
etc. Use small, medium shank hooks such as a # 8 or #10 Dry Fly hook with a
small split shot (pinch on weight) 6-8 inches above the hook. Bring a pair of
forceps (artery clamps) or small needle nose pliers to make it easier
retrieving hooks. Remember to cut the line close to the mouth if the hook is
out of sight! You don’t want to kill the little fishies! Use small worms or
half of a night crawler to start off. If that is too much to handle, mealworms
from a pet store are a little less gross and should get equal results!
Where and When
The closet pond/lake that has a good pan fish (Bluegill/
Perch, etc.) population is a good place to start. It is even better if the
kids can see the fish! Look for a level shoreline and preferably some cover
such as logs or weeds. Small fish need a place to hide and beat the heat. Go
fishing after a nap, in the morning or whatever times your child is normally
most active, not when it is convenient for you! Morning or evening is best.
Depending on where you live, a good rule of thumb for the best time to fish
shorelines for pan fish is from “when the leaves get on the trees until they
fall off”!
At the Midway
After a year or so of Bluegill fishing, it was time to go
to the next level. This involved bigger fish, boats and better equipment. My
children entered their first local Trout Derby at 3 and 5 years old and came
in 1st place! It was for teams
of 2 –3 anglers and the first teams
to catch 3 fish got trophies for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place.
They were still using their original first rods, which were put to the test
with the 12-20 inch trout that were stocked! They had a blast! At ages 5 and 7
they started using spinning rods and although I spent most of my time
untangling lines, they soon got quite proficient and could easily fish with or
without bobbers, using all types of bait. They also kept entering fishing
contests and frequently won the top prizes of trophies, rod and reels, tackle
boxes, etc. My children also moved onto larger fish such as Carp, Bass,
Walleye, etc. In urban areas, most “park ponds” have good Carp populations and
can be a lot of fun! They are strong fighters; bite on a variety of baits such
as cornmeal, corn, dough balls and even bread!
My son’s first pair of hip waders was bought for him
when he was almost 8 yrs old. I would not let him walk in swift currents and
never above the knees, but it opened up a whole new world to him. He is now
into the adult sizes at age 10 and can keep right up with me on most of the
small streams we fish together. My daughter still occasionally wants to use
her “old Pink rod” for sentimental reasons and actually won a 1st
Place trophy with it at the fishing contest mentioned at the beginning of the
article! She can accurately cast her ultra light-spinning rod for trout and
work the bait downstream. My son is untangling, tying on his own and can even
read the water, to some degree, looking for likely holding areas. He has also
done well in the lakes fishing for Trout, Bass, Walleye and Stripers. The
important thing is that these same two children have been on Travel Soccer
Teams, play baseball, basketball, tennis, take art lessons and play the cello
in regional and school orchestras! Too much of one thing is never a good idea
at this age and fishing is no exception. Remember to practice and preach
“Catch and Release” at an early age. There is nothing wrong with keeping one
or two for dinner, where legal, but the idea of “them getting bigger for the
next time” or “giving someone else a chance to have fun” should be instilled
early. Over all conservation, respect for others property and for the Fish and
Game laws should also be expressed repeatedly.
How Old?
Depending on size, children can start using hip boots at
age 8 and get in a watercraft when they can swim without a life jacket, just
make sure they always wear one! They have a tendency to let you know when that
first rod just isn’t good enough anymore. Most fly-fishing schools will take
children once they are in elementary school. One important item is knots. Try
teaching your children basic knots early and have them practice. Make it a
game with a reward if needed, but do it. They will learn to cast better and be
more careful if they know that they will have to tie on their own hooks and
rigs!
In saltwater, be realistic. Don’t put them on an all day
party boat or Striper charter if they have never gone Fluke fishing in the
bay!
What to Use
This really depends on where you live and what you fish
for. If you are in Bass country, you may want to try a medium priced, medium
weight, bait-casting outfit. If you live in Trout country like I do, a good
ultra light outfit is a must; a beginner’s fly rod outfit is a good idea too.
My son and daughter each have a Trout and a “big fish’ outfit that they can
enjoy anything from a Walleye to a medium lake Striper while using. We just
change the extra spool of line accordingly. Start in the middle of the
category that best fits your type of fishing. A few easy to work lures such
as Rapalas, spinners, jigs or a Hula Popper is a good place to start with a
small tackle box. A variety hook pack, tape measure, scale, needle nose pliers
and a split shot weight carousel will fill the space up.
If you stay in the middle of the cost range, you should
be getting a suitable rod and reel with an adequate drag and line capacity. If
my children wanted to upgrade or expand, either money earned from chores or
birthday/holiday gifts were the route we went. They had more appreciation if
the new rod came as a result of helping Dad clean up the property or if
Grandpa bought it for their birthday than if it was the result of a quick trip
to Wal-Mart! Remember, you want to teach them more than just how to catch a
fish.
Local tackle shops can be of assistance when picking out
new equipment. Cabela’s also has a “shopper’s service” when catalog ordering
than can make recommendations on tackle to suit your needs. Just remember, you
get what you pay for. You are better off buying a mid priced outfit than 3
cheap ones!
Young Adults
Once children hit the early teens, the time spent fishing
should be more valuable to both the parent and child. The level of skill and
quality of equipment will be different with every child. The important thing
is to keep encouraging the activity and being supportive. Don’t make excuses
to get out of driving your child and their friend to a nearby lake or stream.
A weekend trip to new waters is a great idea. Try to incorporate fishing with
vacation plans. There are many fishing vacation destinations that can satisfy
all family members. The accommodations at these places run from rustic to
luxurious. The longer in life that a parent can keep them interested in
fishing the better! It is encouraging when I make trips to Lake Ontario to see
so many teenagers on fishing trips with Dad! A few charter captain
associations that I know of have even restarted annual father/son or
parent/child fishing derbies! A college in New England even has an annual
parent/student fishing contest on a lake near the college. They release
numerous tagged fish and the tag numbers translate into varying amounts of
scholarship dollars for the college, including a grand prize of a one-year
tuition!
The important thing is that fishing can be done
anywhere, anytime and at any age, to one degree or another. It can be as
competitive or as casual as you want to make it. In addition to providing
precious hours with your child, it also creates a future for our pastime.
Think of it as preservation of a tradition. The all around benefits of a
little effort early on can reap great rewards down the road. I am not
promising that taking your child fishing will create a “model child”, but it
certainly will not hamper the effort!
Remember, stay dry, fish safe and respect other
anglers and property owners too!
Take a child fishing every chance you can and family
fishing is fun too!
-Bob Tackels
Country Dogs and other Fishing Hazards
I can still remember fishing in NJ’s Pequest
River years ago on a brisk fall morning. I was thigh deep in a large
pool and had already landed a few good-sized holdover trout when the sun
peeked over the hillside. It was very quiet except for the sound of my
reel giving line to one of the hefty Browns and the occasional barking
of distant dogs. I never heard the four Rottwielers coming until they
crested the hilly cornfield about 50 yards away! Too late to run,
especially in rubber/canvas waders and nothing to defend myself with,
but a five foot ultra light rod and a pair of forceps! They were at the
rivers edge a few feet away in the blink of an eye, barking and just
looking mean. The biggest two started into the river and just as I was
about to swim for it, I heard a man’s voice on the hillside yelling for
“Buster” and “Hildie” to stay! The man ambled down to the riverbank
about the same time my heart started beating again. He apologized and
assured me they were friendly and that I didn’t need to be afraid of the
“ones with the black collars”. He explained that if the “ones with the
orange collars” had broken loose from the kennel it would be a whole
different story! He bred and trained Rottwielers for two purposes,
companion/show dogs and guard/ attack dogs. The fearsome foursome that I
encountered turned out to be of the friendly variety and once I got up
the courage to get out the water, they started giving me licks and had
me giving them belly rubs! But what if they had orange collars ……
That day, long ago, was before mace, cell phones
and the Animal Planet Channel! I have had numerous encounters with
country dogs and a variety of other uninvited guests while fishing the
waters of the northeast. While none were as dangerous or unnerving as
the Grizzlies of the northwest Steelhead and Salmon rivers, they were
either dangerous or just nuisances that had to be dealt with! A wild
dog, snake, Black Bear, even a mink can put and end to some good fishing
prematurely! You can’t be prepared for everything. However, some common
sense and information derived from experience can alleviate some of the
potential problems and give you the best shot at an uninterrupted, safe
day on the water! As natural habitat decreases and the amount of new
housing developments increase, our waterways pose more and more problems
for anglers. Here are a few tips that have either worked for me or have
been suggested by some of the experts.
Look before you leap
Use common sense when in an area. If you know
there have been problems with nuisance bears in the area or wild dog
packs, don’t put your ham and cheese or peanut butter and jelly sandwich
in your vest.
A couple years ago there were some reports of dog
packs harassing hikers in the Delaware Water Gap National Park in NJ.
They were considering closing the area because a couple had been
attacked and bitten. The following weekend a father and his young son
were fishing a small park pond. The father gave the seven-year-old boy a
meat and cheese sandwich and some cheese doodles for lunch. He then went
to try fishing the other side of the pond. Five dogs attacked the boy,
(2 of the dogs later were identified as Pit Bulls). Before the father
could react and ward them off, the boy received injuries causing the
need for over 100 stitches, skin grafts and surgery to save a ravaged
arm!
Try to be aware of your surroundings and keep
your ears and eyes open. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
-You
cannot out run a dog or a bear.
A blast from a
compressed air horn or if in close quarters a shot of mace can work
wonders. If you notice a ravaged carcass, torn apart log, tracks or any
other sign where you are, keep alert! I have had to use the air horn
twice since I started packing it in my vest! Once for an angry, mangy
shepherd / collie mix and the other for about a 400 lb. curious bear!
Knock on wood, no mace action yet!!
- Although breathable, stocking foot waders
are extremely comfortable, they are little protection against barbed
wire or snakes.
I have
personally been ambushed twice by Copperhead snakes while wading a
stream! They love to sun on the sides of rocks near the water. The first
time I was wearing the old canvas/ rubber type of boot foot chest wader.
It was a small snake and its fangs got embedded in the rubber of the
upper boot! I barely felt it strike, but had to use a good size branch
to knock him free! The second time I was wearing rubber hip boots.
Bigger snake, he didn’t get stuck but he never reached my skin either.
He got me right around the ankle line. Both times I am convinced that if
I were wearing breathable waders with wading shoes, it would have been a
totally different story! On a recent outing to a stretch of stream that
was new to me, I tripped on a piece of barbed wire that had gotten
washed downstream in the recent floods. It was barely light and I never
saw it. I fell hard and it tore a nice rip in my rubber hip boots right
below the knee, but there was no blood!
- A
swan can be one ugly duckling and beware of mother goose!
More than a few
times while fishing beaver ponds or rural streams I have had a great
fishing area turn into a seen of mayhem! Once while canoeing a small,
slow moving stream in Maine, I was chased for a half mile by a nesting
Canadian goose that didn’t know the word quit! I had paddled a little to
close to her nest and she shot out into the canoe aiming to peck me in
the face. I almost tipped over and once I swatted her back in the water
with a paddle, she chased me, honking away and making false charges for
about half a mile. Sure go ahead and laugh, but it was on the best
stretch of water of my seven-mile trip! A few years ago I thought I was
going to have to kill a beautiful Swan who I must have disturbed on a
nest. I had hiked two miles to get to this Brook Trout laden Beaver
pond. I had just got there and caught two fat Brookies when I stepped
over a big log and she came out of nowhere. After creating quite a
ruckus in the water and on land trying to chase me away, I retreated to
the other side of the pond. All the commotion turned off the fish and
although I could see quite a few fish, they became spooky and would not
hit anything! It ruined my efforts of a four mile round trip to Brookie
heaven! Stay clear of nesting waterfowl!
-Minks stink and don’t get trapped!
Over the years
I have seen plenty of Minks (Weasels/ Fishers), Beavers, Muskrats and
even a couple Otters while on the water. Minks and Otters can ruin your
day of fishing! As soon as you see one, try and scare it off or move in
the opposite direction! They eat fish and have spooked out many a
good-looking trout hole on me! Sometimes you can tell if they are in the
area by the smell they leave behind! I don’t know what it is, their diet
or whatever, but every time I have seen a Mink or Otter, there was a
pungent odor hanging in the air!
You also need
to look out for traps. There are still fur trappers out there! I have
stepped in one Muskrat trap and side stepped several Beaver traps in the
last few years. Look for a stake in the ground along the waters edge or
a patch of well-traveled shoreline! You can also sometimes smell the
trappers bait scent around the area. Most legal traps aren’t able to
inflict much damage on a human, but it pays to be wary.
- Mind the Muck!
Anyone who has
hunted waterfowl or fished in waders has encountered Muck! It sucks you
down like a mild dose of quicksand, stinks to high heaven when you pull
out of it and can stand between you and a great looking fishing spot
like an armed guard! You have two choices with Muck. Go around it or
above it. On several outings I have conquered Mucky shorelines by taking
branches and laying them side-by-side to create a makeshift bridge or
overpass. I saw one angler drag a 4x4 piece of plywood by a rope to his
favorite spot that was guarded by Muck. He would walk out on a fallen
branch, lay down the plywood and fish off it like the bow of a bass
boat! He was able to reach several spots on this stretch of river that
no one else could even attempt. The next time I visited the river I saw
3 guys with plywood!
-Wind your discarded line
Monofiliment
or fly line, it makes no difference. If you break some off, wind it up
and throw it out. There is no reason to leave it so that an animal or
another angler trips up or gets caught in it!
For your vest pocket
Whether you fish alone or with others, here are
a few items that you might want to put in some of those thirty something
pockets in your fishing vest! You may never need them, but they add
little weight and can really come in handy.
Cell Phone –
Most providers have coverage even in
some remote places. It can be a life saver. Put it in a zip lock bag for
added protection.
First Aid Kit/Snake bite kit –
You don’t need more than the essentials. Johnson and Johnson sells a
first aid kit that has a snake bite kit included and is about the size
of a pack of cigarettes.
Small can of mace – Just in case you have
too close an encounter with either Rover or Yogi. Unless you have
a carrying permit for a handgun, this is the next best thing!
Map – Get a detailed map and blow up the
area that you plan to fish. Just in case you need to detour around a
problem, feel ill or have to call in help. It weighs nothing and can cut
down time and energy in a bad situation.
Super glue – It can be a quick fix for a bad
cut or a torn wader.
Multi purpose knife – one with a saw
blade, screwdriver, etc. can really come in handy.
Noisemaker –
A small air horn
canister costs about $4.00 and can fit in a small vest pocket. A loud
whistle can also be effective.
Wading stick – They do make telescoping
models that may fit in some pockets, however most will not. They are
very handy to have with you. You can test depth, bottom softness, use it
as a hiking stick or a fly or lure retriever! I even saw one old timer
use a broom handle. He had a small bicycle seat in his vest. He
complained about a bad back, so whenever he got fatigued, he put the
seat on the broom handle, got out into waist deep water, squatted down
and kept on fishing.
These are a few ideas to help make your time on
the water a little safer and event free! Remember: Fish safe, be
courteous to other anglers and especially land owners! Bring out what
you bring in and take a child fishing every chance you get!!
Family Fishing is fun too!
-Bob Tackels
Muddy Waters
With over eight inches of recent
snowmelt and over five inches of rain this past weekend, it is finally
starting to feel like spring and the opening of Trout Season! Record
flood levels can cause many anglers to get turned off by the muddy
waters, but they shouldn’t. Think of it as a purging of the system and a
recreation of sorts for your favorite creeks and rivers. The effects can
be tremendous for the savvy angler who is willing to learn new tricks.
In northeastern PA, where I live, most streams run gin clear down the
mountains most of the time. Fish are spooky and have the advantage of
knowing every snag, sharp boulder and blown down submerged tree to give
them the upper hand in scrappy fights on light tackle. After a period of
high water or even record flood levels, the scales start to dip to the
savvy anglers favor! New holes are carved out, new structure appears on
the banks and gravel bars appear out of once silted areas. Weed beds are
dispersed and the fish need to reacquaint themselves with their habitat.
Most fish will stop feeding during floods and choose to find some cover
and hold on. Others get swept downstream and get somewhat disoriented.
Eventually these fish will turn on and start feeding in earnest. This is
the angler’s big chance to cash in on some of the best stream fishing of
possibly a lifetime! That elusive lunker from that upstream undercut
bank and submerged log may now be in an eddy behind a boulder at the
head of an open pool!
My first experience with muddy
waters was years ago at the Pequest River in NJ. We had a few days of
heavy rain just before Opening Day of Trout Season. When we arrived, the
river was a coffee colored, debris infested, torrent of water. While we
stood by the truck and tried to figure out a plan “B” to save our
Opening Day, two old timers parked behind us and walked down to the
flooded cornfield along the river. My 3 fishing buddies and I chuckled
that these guys were actually fishing in a cornfield! We stopped
chuckling and got our gear on quickly after we watched them land a few
nice sized stocked Rainbows. We were at least fifty yards from what was
the riverbank, standing in thigh deep water that was much clearer, with
little current, and were catching trout on silver and white spinners. It
was a low spot in the field that the trout gravitated to avoid the muddy
torrent. We each caught our limit of trout in less than an hour. Sure,
we lost some lures on the close cut cornstalks, but if you casted in
between the rows and twitched on retrieve, the hits came often! Since
then I have caught trout in parking lots, on roads and behind oak trees
too! However, the best fishing is within the first week after the water
recedes and starts to clear.
Gamefish and their forage are getting
settled and sorted out during that first few days to a week. They are
also very hungry! Once while fishing the mouth of the Manatee River on
the Gulf coast of Florida we witnessed this phenomenon in full force.
Heavy rains had muddied the river and fishing was lousy by all accounts
for several days. Winds made it difficult to fish the bay also. When the
sky cleared and the winds calmed down we motored over to river mouth
early one morning. Just where the muddy river water hit the clearer bay
water, explosion upon explosion was occurring! Snook up to the 15 lb
range were crashing bait in the twenty-yard wide section of
transformation water from muddy to clear! It was clear enough to see and
close enough to the muddy water for a great ambush! We caught and
released over twenty Snook and broke off just as many on snags or in the
current as they raced back up to the river. They were all between 5 and
15 lbs and provided much fun until the wind picked up again and blew us
off the bay.
Here are some Muddy Water tips that may
help out and save a day on the water.
Fresh Water Rivers or Creeks:
Try the backwaters or high bank sides
of the current. A half night crawler bottom bounced on a heavy split
shot can be deadly. Work the bait slowly and make at least half a dozen
casts in likely spots. On slower streams, try small crayfish hooked
trough the tail with a split shot six inches from the hook. Bounce it
off the bottom with quick twitches. If you want to try artificials, go
with heavy enough jigs to stay on the bottom in black, brown or olive. I
know you would normally think white, yellow or chartreuse, but try dark
first. Maribu jigs or small bodied swimming jigs work best. Look for
feeder creeks or runoff areas that may infuse a strain of clearer water.
Work the sides of these hard. Make sure you try a couple drops DIRECTLY
into the flow of their current. Slow and close to the bottom is key. For
early spring trout stocked waters, a nugget of Powerbait with a three to
four inch lead to the split shot can be deadly. One Opening Day on NJ’s
Black River, I watched several anglers try a small deep hole without
success. It was a mini gorge about 10ft. long and 8 ft. wide. I already
had 4 nice trout and had thrown back a few more when the spot became
vacant. I put on an over sized split shot about 3 inches above the hook
with a nugget of orange Powerbait. On the second drop in the hole, a 3
plus pound rainbow inhaled the bait! It wouldn’t fit in my Artic Creel
and I had to secure it to a nylon stringer! Two drops back in the hole,
using green Powerbait, I caught a 17 inch Brookie that filled out my
limit of six! You should have seen the look on some of my fellow anglers
as I trekked back up the path. They were the two biggest fish we saw
caught that day.
Ponds and Small Lakes: Again, look
for run offs and feeder creeks. If it is springtime, fish the
opposite side of the shoreline! Try wobbling spoons, in gold and copper
or medium sized spinners in the same colors. Twitch them erratically
with a slow retrieve. You can cover a lot of ground with these baits and
get an idea where the fish are set up better. Depending on time of year
and water temperature, this has been a killer technique for me with all
types of fish, including Bass, Perch and Crappie. I once fished a small
state park lake that was recently stocked with trout, but had bass,
perch and panfish in it too. Everyone was fishing where the creek fed
the lake. I walked to the opposite end and started casting Lil’Tiger
gold spoons. I creeled my limit of trout (including a 19” brood stock
rainbow), released a few more and in between the trout, caught two
decent 1-2 lb Bass a few Perch and a jumbo Bluegill! As I left, most of
the guys were still at the creek mouth and the “hero” had 4 trout on a
stringer! In summer months, go with the flow! Try drifting live
bait below dams, feeder creeks or any runoff areas. If possible float a
bait the length of the current or cast and retrieve small plugs back up
the current.
Small Rapalas work well for this. Many
ponds and small lakes will have a weed line just beyond the natural
inlet flow. Use that weed line as a boundary for where to stop your
drift.
Also try small to medium jigs in this are
too. I once had a morning where I caught over 25 big Perch and slab
Crappies on white Mister Twister grubs jigged through a runoff creeks
flow!
Bays and Brackish Water:
Many bays that are river fed get
tainted or muddied after heavy rains. If there is a visible water
clarity line of change, fish the line! I have trolled such “lines” where
the cooler, muddier river water met the bay water and scored big with
Weakfish on med. sized “Thin Fin” lures. When the Weakfish stopped
hitting, we drifted for Fluke along the line. After putting on 3 way
rigs with a chartreuse Mister Twister split tail grub/killie combo, we
caught some nice Fluke in the 2-5 lb range. Out of 14 caught, only 3
were shorts! The trick was to have the bait off the bottom about a foot.
With the 3 way rig and a 3 foot leader, that grub/killie combo would
slap the bottom and the Fluke couldn’t resist. That same rig setup has
produced many times for Fluke when the bay would get muddied. If you are
fishing for Stripers or Blues, try big noisy top water plugs. I watched
a guy at the Manesquan inlet catch 3 keeper Stripers on Big Atom plugs
one morning when the water from the river was putting a brown stain all
around the inlet. There were about 20 other anglers, not catching very
much. After he caught his third fish, 2 other guys started casting big
top water plugs too. Within a half hour later, I saw about ten more
stripers and 4 blues caught –All on BIG top water plugs in the brown
water!
The next time you see muddy waters, don’t
be discouraged. It can be a bonus if you play it right. Many times bait
and other forage will use the off color to hide in and feed off the
nutrients that come along with it. The predators will be close by!
Remember: Fish safe, stay dry, watch rising waters and swift currents!
Take a child fishing every chance you get! Family fishing is fun too!
-Bob Tackels
Much
to do about Fishing
For many of us
“Reel Men”, the winter months are filled with a sense of helplessness,
reflection, hope and anxiety that most others cannot appreciate. We feel
helpless that the playgrounds we love to play in are encased in ice,
separating us from our friends. We reflect on the past seasons and go
through the list of “what ifs”, such as: what if I tried another type of
lure, tied a different knot, loosened my drag a bit more, bought a
bigger net, used a fluorocarbon leader for that finicky monster brown!
We all hope that we get second chances at lost trophy fish, get another
perfect day at “The Hook” for Stripers, get a return trip to the Keys
for one more shot at a “Silver King”, that we get more time on the water
than last year! We spend so much time doing these things that before you
know it, the weather gets warmer, we are scrambling to ready our
equipment for the first outing of the year, new line gets hastily put
on, a quick patch job on a pair of waders and before you know it anxiety
sets in! It happens to the best of us. However, we do have choices to
fill in the winter downtime between snowfalls and playoff games! Here is
a quick list and some ideas to go with it.
Outdoors
Winter Trout:
Most areas of the northeast have streams that will holdover trout year
round. Trout in winter do feed and most likely have been left untouched
for months! Pick one of the balmy, above freezing afternoons and give it
a try. You may be surprised what a slow drift in a pool with a mealworm,
½ night crawler or nymph will produce. Some of my biggest trout of the
year are caught from November to February! It also gives you a sense of
accomplishment that you caught a fish that lasted in the stream so long.
On New Years Eve this winter, I landed a beautiful, hooked jaw, male
brown from a creek about as wide as a driveway! It was 22”inches and
weighed 4.2 lbs. He took a ½ night crawler buried in a #10 dry fly hook
off 2 lb test line. It was an old fish that I had only caught once
before, 2 years ago on balmy day in February! Pictures revealed the same
big black spot on the gill cover! I fish this stretch of creek 10 –15
times a year!
Ice Fishing:
I have written
about this subject in detail in the past article “Fish on the Rocks”. If
you have never tried it, give it a shot. For the price of family dinner
at a good restaurant, you can purchase the basics, catch fish and have a
fun time! A hand auger, insulated bait bucket, tip ups, simple jigging
stick, a couple jigs, shiners, mousies/meal worms and you are ready to
go! Drive by a local lake on a weekend morning and talk to a few of the
hard water anglers first. It can only help. The kids, if dressed warm,
will have a ball!
Stripers in the Surf:
Not many try
this after Thanksgiving, but I can remember a few Christmas weekends on
the beaches of
Sandy Hook and Point Pleasant,
NJ that we caught plenty! Mostly on blood worms and few
on medium sized “swimming eel” jigs. Not many were keepers, but the
action was enough to make you forget about the cold or taking down the
holiday ornaments! Like any outdoor activity in the winter, you need to
pick your days. Make sure you check out your waders for leaks before you
go. “Swim” the eels slow with intermittent quick twitches right off the
bottom!
Indoors
Outdoor
Expositions:
These can be a great way to kill a day, spend time with the family, eat
some food your wife normally won’t let you, get some great bargains on
equipment, see the latest equipment and just have fun! There is plenty
to see so get there early. The first day of the show will yield the best
variety of bargains if you want to buy, the last day will offer the best
bargains, but they may be on items you really don’t need! There are
usually plenty of demonstrations, exhibits and activities to keep
everyone happy. Some of the better ones I have been to are: Raritan
Center in NJ, Rockland County Comm. College in NY, the PA outdoor show
in
Harrisburg
at the Agricultural Center may take 2 days to work your way through!
Most of these shows have a mix of hunting and fishing. Everything from
Alaskan Kodiak Bear outfitters to a children’s trout pond (above ground
pool filled with hatchery trout) where the little ones can try their
luck! If you know what you want and know your prices, you can really get
some great deals. The latest technology is always on display too! Most
of these shows are in the mid January to early March timeframe.
Fish Hatcheries:
Most states have
them and some are better than others! NJ’s Pequest Hatchery is also an
Environmental
Center.
They have interactive centers for children and provide good information
and insight to below the surface. Some have special event weekends and
offer seminars or shows. It can be worth an afternoon to check one out.
It also can give you a refresher course on what a brood stock size fish
looks like! There is usually enough to see indoors, but if you can pick
a day where it is bearable outside, you may make the trip worth it more.
Catalog “window
shopping”:
This in my opinion is a must do for any serious “reel man”. Not so much
to spend, but to get ideas. Don’t just look, read the descriptions.
There is a lake I fish for Stripers that has a lot of deep river
channels. I fish the sides
And I often troll with downriggers. The irregular bottom contour makes
it hard to troll right off the bottom consistently for any distance. I
had tried everything with little success. Half way through a Cabela’s
Saltwater catalog during a February snow last winter and wham! There it
was, my solution! I wasn’t even thinking or looking for it. In the
spring, I took my $12.99 (+ S&H) “solution” down to the lake and boated
3 Stripers in the 10-15 lb. range! I have also been reminded of what I
have stored away while turning the pages. I frequently go looking for a
box of something, which I haven’t used in years that may now work
somewhere! It usually does and I saved money by not buying!
Brushing Up:
I
mean this literally! Go into your lure boxes and tackle compartments and
clean off all that junk on the hooks, lure and terminal tackle. That
dried up spray scent, pork rind, seaweed, etc. Use an old toothbrush or
a rag and hot water and wipe off those plugs. Give them a spray of a
glossy clear coat finish if needed! Check the sharpness of hooks, the
split rings, and the crank bait lip’s position/condition. Polish those
Diamond and Ava jigs. Replace those once white buck tail trailer hooks!
Take some tooth polish and shine up those trout spinners with that old
toothbrush. Next clean out the tackle boxes and storage compartments.
All kinds of things leak and die in there! I once went to take out some
Walleye jigs from container and realized that I had left a worm on one
during a frenzy the previous fall. It smelled awful! If I would have
tossed one of the jigs into the lake the Walleye would have swam to the
other end! Finally, get out your rods and reels! Take some furniture
polish and wipe down your rods with a soft cloth. Check the inside of
your guides for wear. Make sure the reel seats are sturdy. I never did
this until I lost a big Striper the first trip one spring. I had him on
for a awhile and when I went to reposition my hands the reel broke off
the reel seat due to a cracked band! I lost the fish, put a gash in the
spool and broke off the bottom line guide on the rod. Not good! Finally
clean your reels up. Brush away dirt, take off the spools and spray some
WD40 over all moving parts! I will inspect the gears and lube them, then
check the drag. Trust me, it is all worth the effort.
Our time on the
water should be meant for fishing, not doing maintenance or repairs!
Remember to stay warm and dry, fish safe, be mindful of others and take
a child fishing every chance you can. Family fishing is fun too!
-Bob Tackels Wade a minute………
While
driving around the flooded roads of northeast Pa and parts of New Jersey
this past weekend, I observed many people wearing a wide variety of
waders. So many people that in some areas it looked like downtown
Pulaski, NY at the height of the Salmon River annual fall Salmon run!
Men, women and children wearing everything from Kmart rubber hip boots,
fireman boots, on up to expensive breathable, chest waders normally worn
by river guides! No wonder since it was the worst flooding in over 50
years! Whether they were clearing out flooded basements, trying to
retrieve articles from mostly submerged vehicles, taking photos or
carrying pets to higher ground, people in waders were everywhere! I
started to remember when you had only 2 choices when it came to waders.
Rubber and canvas/ rubber 2 ply! Both were heavy, hot in warmer months
and stiff in colder months, not very durable and usually didn’t last
long! They came in Small, Medium and Large boot sizes and in 2 lengths –
Hip and Chest! The “chesties” were held up by either leather or
primitive elastic suspenders. The “hippers” by either leather or rubber
belt loop snaps that NEVER HELD! I was wearing my last pair of “old
world waders” when I had one of the scariest moments I ever encountered
on the water! It was a misty dawn on a NY state trout stream. I had
stumbled upstream with my rubber cleated soles, in the dark, to my
favorite hole. I noticed a “branch” slowly making its way downstream
when I hooked into my first trout of the day. I kept one eye on the
branch as I fought the scrappy brown so I would not get my line caught
up in it. As the “branch” passed me there was noise like a cannon going
off! It scared the !*%@!**! out of me and I nearly shot right out of
those elastic suspenders! I lost my balance on the slick stone bottom.
After I up righted myself in my now rotund waders, I found my rod, which
I had tossed (thankfully onto the bank) in the melee). The trout was off
and getting out of the water was difficult. I finally gave up and slid
the waders off in waist high water. Cold, wet and dejected I ended my
day! As I got out of the water, I saw the “cannon” a little downstream.
The Beaver had the last laugh and had probably tail slapped other
anglers out of their waders before!
Waders have come a long way since then. They can
make or break a fishing trip and yet are very easily overlooked as a
crucial item by many anglers. I bought my first pair of Neoprene waders
18 years ago and I still wear them several times a year. They are not my
most used pair, but they are my best pair! Here are some hints about
buying the right waders for your type of fishing or waterfowl hunting.
The Basics
Chest waders are now made for youths and
women as well as men. They are cut differently and come in Tall, Regular
and Stout sizes for all. They are available in stockingfoot and boot
foot models. Chest waders are made of several materials to choose from.
There are basically 4 groups to choose from. Rubber (with or without
canvas) Neoprene (with or without Spandra or some other outer
protection), Nylon or an assortment of Breathable fabrics such as
Gore-Tex. Many manufacturers are also offering “waist high” waders that
fit like a pair of pants.
Hip Boots are a very viable option for many
anglers. If you are fishing mostly mountain streams or drift boating,
they may be the way to go. They are easy to walk in, pack in and do not
take up much room in a duffle bag. They come in just about all the
variations and materials as chest waders do and are about a one third to
half the cost of chest waders. I strongly recommend hip boots for a
young angler. They are safer and are a good start economically for fast
growing feet. You can still gain the experience of walking on slippery
riverbeds without much of a down side.
Stockingfoot waders are excellent for
someone who plans on doing a lot of walking or needs the support
of a lace up boot. With gravel guards either built in or separate, the
wear factor is minimal with a little extra care. Stockingfoot types are
less expensive than Boot foot models, but keep in mind that the cost of
a decent pair of wading shoes can get pricey and swallow up the
difference quickly.
Boot foot waders offer less support around
the ankle, but in my opinion last longer and are easier to maintain.
Soles should be a major concern regardless
of what style wader you choose. If you are fishing saltwater on the
beaches you do not want felt bottoms that will be collecting sand in
them. Rubber cleated soles are best for most saltwater anglers. If you
are fishing mostly slower valley streams or older rivers, felt soles are
perfect. For those who brave the fast moving, rocky bottom streams such
as many of the Lake Ontario tributaries, metal studded soles or strap on
cleats such as “Corkers” should be considered.
For waterfowl hunters who “run the muck”, rubber
soles with boots that have strong ankle support arte needed. Some wading
boot manufacturers have realized that there are many types of conditions
that their products are subjected to and have created “convertible”
boots that offer interchangeable soles of felt and studded that are easy
to switch and sturdy.
Walk on Water
Remember you get what you pay for. You can spend
$30 on a pair of rubber hip boots or $300 for a pair of breathable
“guide wear” chest waders!
Rubber cracks if not well taken care of, but
holds up well in saltwater if you rinse it off when you get home. It is
also hot in warmer months, but patches easy. Rubber/ canvas are heavy,
but wears like armor for the most part.
Neoprene is warm in winter and downright
uncomfortable in summer! The seams are usually taped, but leaks are easy
to repair (I use super glue). They are easy to walk in but unless they
have an abrasive resistant outer shell, will not last very long for
those who hike in or fish in thick brush banked areas.
Nylon, especially in the breathable
models with extra 3-5 ply material in the knees and seat area are
great. Most are form fitting and drag little in the water, can take
abuse such as sharp burrs or thickets and are extremely lightweight. You
will not sweat in summer and with a pair of fleece wading pants will
keep you warm in winter
Gore-Tex is very durable, but can be
costly and in my opinion, a little stiff. I have tried on a few
different pairs, but none were as comfortable as most of the nylon
hybrids.
Insulated waders and/or boot foot waders are
the way to go if you are fishing in cold climates for Steelhead
or Salmon. However, layers of clothes and fleece wading pants can be
just as effective. My Steelhead waders are 8MM Neoprene with Mylar /
Felt boot inserts. When I peel them off at the end of a morning of
fishing, you can watch my body steam up the air around me! I have never
been cold wearing them on the river, even in single digit temperatures!
Any temperature over 40 degrees and they are unbearable. You can
actually pour the sweat out of the boots!
In short, it all comes down to how much you want to
spend, how and where you fish and how often. The important thing is that
like everything with our sport, we have many choices out there to keep
us dry and comfortable. Check out a few different manufacturers such as
Hodgeman, Simms, Cabelas, etc. There is bound to be the perfect
combination of price , form and function out there for everyone.
Remember: Stay dry, fish safe, be mindful of
others and take a child fishing every chance you can. Family fishing is
fun too!
-Bob Tackels “Yankee Boy” Tactics for the Gulf Angler
For nearly twenty-five years, I had spent at
least two weeks a year fishing the inshore surf, river inlets and bays
of the Gulf of Mexico. It was always during the winter months from
November to April. I was the Grandson of “Snowbirds”and the young
apprentice of some of the best gulf coast fishing minds of that era. I
was “the Yankee boy” to both the natives and the “snowbirds” from south
of the Mason –Dixon line. My mentors were not sport fisherman, but
seasoned meat hunters. They fished off the beaches, canal banks, piers
and bridges from Clearwater to Naples. A few had modest bay boats and I
doubt any had ventured farther out into the Gulf than a hundred yards in
a pair of waders! However, these guys caught more fish in a week than
some anglers did in a year. I would journey out with one group in the
morning and someone different in the afternoon. At night I would fish
the lighted bay piers or bring a lantern out to one of the Gulf concrete
jetties. My grandparents lived on Anna Maria Island, just across
Sarasota Bay from Bradenton. Speckled Trout, Sugar Trout, Whiting,
Redfish, Flounder, Snook and the light biting, hard battling Sheephead
were our main quarry. Amberjacks, Ladyfish, Spadefish and most other
species “didn’t fillet well” and were either thrown back or used for
cut bait if hooked too deep! Once in a while a Black Grouper or other
offshore fish would wander inshore and make someone a hero.
Shrimp was the primary bait. I can remember
buying fifty for one dollar at the local bait shop. We also combed the
bay fronts and caught or dug our own sand flees, fiddler crabs, hermit
crabs, sandworms and tubeworms. Most tackle boxes had only terminal
tackle in them. A few anglers used buck tail jigs and Mirror Lures for
Speckled Trout. Size and Creel limits were considered “optional” by
most. Between the Red Tides, “Gill Netters” and Coastal development, the
meat hunters figured they were entitled to whatever they could get in
the bucket or on the stringer. Slowly, over the years, this mindset
changed with a little help from a young fishing fool from New Jersey!
My mentors were in their Golden years, ages 60 to
86. What they lacked in reflex time they made up for in wisdom. I swear
they could smell fish a mile away. We would walk past 20 pilings on a
bridge looking for the “honey hole” and we always caught fish right
away. As the “gill netters” robbed Sarasota Bay of Trout and Redfish on
the main grass flats and channels, we would chug for miles in old wooden
boats or machete our way through mangroves to get to hidden hotspots
that the “gill netters” couldn’t reach or couldn’t find. We would return
with sometimes 100 fish a day of various species. While we were
filleting and packaging our catch by the dock, we would feed our scraps
to the cranes, crabs, pelicans and Pinfish. During the afternoon shift,
Porpoises would sweep down the shallow channel to the dock and chase the
pinfish or mullet while giving us a little show. Our catch was
distributed amongst less fortunate friends to be eaten fresh, or frozen
and taken north for summer fare. During these visits I would fish
sometimes 15 hrs a day / 7 days a week. It was a young anglers paradise!
Every year I would show up with something new to
try out. Lighted bobbers for night Speckled Trout fishing, a new
weedless lure to cast for Redfish or a new style of hook. I often
wondered if my old friends were happy to see me or my “new ideas” upon
my arrivals. I always had better tackle than my mentors, bought with
hard earned lawn cutting money or acquired in birthday cards. As I
started having fun and kept filling my share of the daily quota of fish
on lighter tackle using artificials, the “old dogs” began learning new
tricks. As time went on, they even started culling catches and following
regulations! I also began to bring down extras of my “new ideas” for my
mentors and local tackle shops added a few new items that became
constant requests. More important than the expansion of my fishing
knowledge, these men taught me about life in general. Their values,
honesty and appreciation of life have and always will be with me.
Although sadly, all of my old friends have passed
away, their experience and our collaborative efforts live on and are
still effective today along the Gulf coast. Here are a few that will
work for you too if you get the opportunity to fish the inshore waters
of the Gulf coast.
Speckled Trout
(Sugar Trout and Gray Trout)
Where
During daytime, try grass flats off the shore on
outgoing tides and flats off channels on incoming tides. Most
depressions or potholes will hold fish. Bay coves off channels are
always a great bet. During cold fronts, try deeper water.
At night, follow the light! Try fishing piers or
bridges that light up the water. Scout during the day for grass flat
areas near the bridge or pier. Start shallow, work deeper if needed.
How
Light line –6 lb. test is ideal (8 lb max!) with a
fast tapered 7 ft. rod with a med. action spinning reel. Live shrimp
hooked near the tail under a weighted float ( popping or cigar type) is
best bait method day or night.
Try small buck tails of white, yellow or lime green
with some Mylar for flash. Rig them tandem in unclear water. Any
weedless or rigged weedless crank bait such as a Storm Thin Fin or Shad
Rap is worth trying. Johnson’s Minnow spoons (weedless) in gold work
well. Sluggo’s in white and silver are worth a try too. Trolling or fast
casting Mirro Lures in red/ white or black /white is productive after
fronts or in unclear water. These are flimsy mouthed fish. Light on the
hook set!
Flounder
Where
Mud flats near channels are a sure bet. Around dock
channels is productive in bays. Look for grass – mud line and stick
close to that.
How
Same tackle as Trout. Try a bottom-bouncing rig
with a 3 ft leader and small minnow or live shrimp. Do a slow twitch
retrieve. Sand and Bloodworms are excellent once you locate flounder.
Another bait option is headless, dead shrimp under a cigar float and
drift just off the bottom. Sometimes a small jig head w/ shrimp will do
the trick.Redfish
Where
In the bays – Gray days or nights
are best. Structure such as channel edges, weed lines or shellfish beds.
Old pier or dock pilings were always productive. Try fishing into the
wind.
In the gulf- Try any weed line or
break around rocks or jetties. On stormy days cast between the two wave
breaks off the beach.
How
School Reds(up to 10 lbs)-My
favorite rod was an 8 ft med. action/ taper rod with a strong butt end.
Use a reel with a smooth drag and 8 lb test. Try a fluorocarbon 3 ft.
leader and an egg sinker / barrel swivel rig. Live large shrimp, minnows
or small crabs work well in the bay. Johnson Minnows( in gold and
silver) work well on the grass flats, but try digger headed jigs with
white or yellow twister or auger tails near pilings and shellfish beds.
Med. large lipped crank baits and soft swimming jigs (paddle tails) in
contrasting colors work well on windy days. One last thing- try leaving
a hook in the first Red you catch and attaching a small balloon to about
25 -30 ft. of line. Return him and follow his friends via the balloon.
It works and will keep you on the school!
Bull Reds(over 10 lbs)- 8 or 9 ft
med. taper rod with a large capacity reel spooled with 12 –16 lb. test.
Try large crank baits that will dig sand along the wave breaks,
especially on rough, cloudy days. Casting around any structure or drop
off is best. 4-6 inch crabs or baitfish off an egg sinker/ barrel swivel
rig with a 3 ft. leader works great. Also, try a “Swimming Eel” like you
would for Stripers up north. That can work well off a long cast on a
clear day!
Snook
Where
Around structure near river mouths,
bay docks, channel edges, mangrove roots, etc. They like the shade, so
check around buoys and especially commercial fishing marinas that have a
lot of moored boats! Look deeper in colder weather near channels or
drop offs. In brackish or salt rivers, try around bridges.
How
Try to find the average size of the
fish in the area you are fishing in. Most likely the same tackle
mentioned earlier for School Reds will work for Snook. Some areas are
known for producing brutes. There was a stretch of the Manatee River we
used to fish that had many fish in the 10-25 lb range. Also, be mindful
that you will be fishing structure.
Cast Twister jigs in white, yellow or root beer.
Buck tails and any erratic swimming jerk bait or slim line stick bait
like a Smithwick or a Uzuri will work. Crimp a split shot on the back
split ring. It changes the action and always worked well. Paddle tail
grubs and Sluggo’s work well too!
For bait: large shrimp, 4 –6 inch baitfish or even
a 4” thin-shelled crab will work. Twitch the shrimp and crab and cut the
tail ends off the baitfish. Use as little weight as possible. They are
very wary. Try a 3-4 ft. fluorocarbon leader and barrel swivel. In
rivers, try a large sand or bloodworm too.
Whiting
Where
First off, these fish are similar to
what northerners call Kingfish. We use mostly bloodworms for them up
north and catch them in the surf. In the Gulf area, sandy bay channels
near a Gulf inlet are ideal. Longboat Key bridge channel was the best
spot. Whiting also will be found in the Gulf surf on overcast days. They
will usually be larger than the bay fish too. Cast just beyond the
furthest wave action. Nights are excellent.
How
Since we are talking an average size
range of 12 –16 inches, go as light as you can. I would use a freshwater
6 ft light action rod / reel set up with just enough butt strength to
lift onto the pier or jetty. Smallish hooks off a 2 ft leader/ egg
sinker/ barrel swivel rig works best. Best bait is headless, soft shrimp
(even cooked works). My grandfather and I once caught 60 whiting in 3
hrs off a Gulf concrete jetty. They were all good size and we only had
50 shrimp! They will hit a small buck tail and sand worms too.
Sheephead
Where
Barnacles. Where you find barnacles
you should find Sheepheads! Pilings , bridges, piers, coral and rocky
bottoms. Inlet bridges or piers near channels are excellent. We use to
pull a pipe on a rope along the bottom and listen for it to hit rocks.
Then we wound anchor that old wooden boat and start catching Sheephead!
They are Bluegills on steroids! They range from 1-20 lbs, but average
2-7 lbs. If you see them by break walls or pilings, try to move to where
you can’t see them in a little deeper water. It will produce more and
bigger bites! The bigger and more active fish are light shy!
How
Slow tapered 6-7 ft rods with a
sturdy reels loaded with 10 –15 lb. test abrasive resistant line. You
will be using as much weight as needed to keep your tube worm,
bloodworm, sand flea, fiddler / hermit crab or head half of shrimp tight
against the piling or bridge support. Use and egg sinker/ barrel swivel
and a 1 ft leader. If you are fishing rocks use either a slip bobber or
just crank up a few inches or a foot off the bottom. They fight very
hard for the size and you want to get them away from the sharp
barnacles! Tide changes are best.
You are likely to catch Ladyfish (locally
known as poor man’s tarpon) while fishing for Trout. They are great
aerial fun on light tackle. You may also run into Amberjacks or Crevalle
Jacks around the Gulf inlets. They will test your tackle and burn out
your drags, but are fun to catch. When fishing at night on the bottom,
you will probably catch Gafftop Sail catfish, White cats, Skates and
Sharks. I was reeling in a nice Whiting one night on a Gulf pier. Out
of nowhere an 8 ft Tiger shark darted from the shadows, grabbed it and
just hung there munching on it! My fellow elder fisherman stopped
drinking beer on the pier for quite a while after that for fear of
falling over the railing!!
The nice thing about the Gulf coast is you do not
need a guide or boat to catch fish and have fun. Most tackle shops are
very informative.
Try some “Yankee Boy” tactics on your next trip
to Florida. It may be worth it to take a day away from Disney and give
it a try. The whole family can have fun in these inshore waters.
Remember, stay dry, fish safe and take a child
fishing every chance you can. Family fishing is fun too!
-Bob Tackels FISH
ON THE FLY!
Technology has
changed the world of angling in many ways. When I started out, a
Mitchell 300 reel and Fenwick fiberglass rod was “the outfit”.
If you could afford a Lowrance “bird trap” Flasher you were
the envy of everyone on the lake. Now we use digital reels, invisible
lines, vivid color/high definition fish locators, GPS systems, etc.
Ultra light and ultra strong materials
make our casting effortless and our electronic lures are close to
becoming heat-seeking missiles! It amazes me that with all these
advancements that there are any fish left to catch! While our arsenals
of fish catching creations have increased, our primitive ”fish
sense” has decreased. As with much of our world, we have grown
dependent on our advances in technology to do our thinking for us. Go to
any retail store when the computers are down and watch the cashiers try
to count out change! I have seen anglers quit fishing on Lake Ontario
for a weekend just because they had a problem with their fish finder!
For many, angling
has just become too complicated! Not only do we wrestle with out
desktops crashing at work, but now we are getting frustrated with the
sensitivity settings on our LCR’s! This is why one form of angling has
gained membership in alarming numbers in recent years. It is still
nearly as pure and primitive as it’s origin. Yes, technology has made
it a little easier, but it is still closer to its original form than any
other type of angling. The phrase “art form” is still used to
describe it. Still as
peaceful and computer free as it was 100 years ago, Fly Fishing has
really caught the attention of a quite a cast of characters!
Over
thirty years ago, a friend of mine whom I would sneak off and go fishing
with frequently, invited me to go up to his Aunt and Uncles cabin in New
York State for a weekend of fishing. My parents said yes and their
decision ended up changing my life.
My
friends Aunt and Uncle’s place turned out to be in the Catskill
Mountains. Their names were Joan and Lee and they looked very familiar
when I first met them. There was more than just a cabin too. It was a
bonified fishing camp! Some of the guests also looked a little familiar.
It didn’t take my preteen brain much time to figure things out. I was
an avid watcher of The American Sportsman show on ABC at the time. Joan
and Lee’s last name was Wulff. Joan was the woman’s fly fishing
world champion and Lee already had fly patterns named after him! The 2
guys that were taking off their waders on the porch of one of the cabins
were Curt Gowdy and Phil Harris! These are the guys that every weekend I
would “follow on great adventures to rippling streams to wide open
spaces” on TV!
I
was in the presence of fishing gods. The Fishing Dream Team of that era!
It is needless to say that I learned more in 2 days than most do in
years. To this day I appreciate the patience that they showed with the
“ junior worm dunker” that had a million questions about fly
fishing. I watched and learned in awe.
I
have fly fished over the years, on and off, for a variety of species
from Bluegills to Salmon. I admit that I have wet monofilament lines
much more than fly lines recently, but I have always owned at least 2
fly rods. It is not only the art of tying flies, matching the hatch and
presenting the offering that is alluring. It is the reading of a stream
in search of the best holding water and the colors of Native Brook Trout
or a spawning Steelhead. It may be the dance of a fly line in mid flight
and the swirl of big brown gulping down a dry fly. There are many
reasons to get into flyfishing. The fact that you can fool everything
from a ½ lb Grayling to a 500 lb billfish into eating an insect or fish
imitation should be enough by itself.
There
are men and women’s fly fishing clubs and schools opening all over the
country. In some areas, learning institutions offer elective classes
about fly fishing. There are fly fishing only resorts from Alaska to New
Zealand. Fly fishing apparel now comes in all sizes for men, women and
children. Depending on your sense of adventure and your bank account,
there is something for everyone. Like other types of fishing, you do not
need to spend a lot of money to be successful and get enjoyment.
Visions of the mist rising above a cool mountain trout stream and
its solitude or a sunrise over the Atlantic as you stalk bonefish and
permit on the flats in The Keys are tempting.
Here
are a few tips to get started.
Research
Check
your state or local area for “fly fishing only “ bodies of water.
Some states not only designate sections or whole streams but also ponds
and lakes as well to fly fishing only. Concentrate on those areas first.
This way you are on a level field with the competition and will be
around people you may learn something from.
Pick
a type of fish you are familiar with and match your fly outfit (weight)
to that species. It is much harder to learn to catch trout on a fly rod
if you are an avid bass fisherman and have never waded a stream before.
If you were a Striper and Blue fisherman, it wouldn’t make sense to
get an outfit for Tarpon or Billfish and learn how to catch them!
By
starting with a type of fish you are familiar with you cut the learning
curve in half, not to mention the confidence factor. Rent /buy a video
or a book about fly fishing for beginners. It will help. See if there
are any Fly Shops in your area. Just go in a look around. Ask questions.
Get an idea of what the gear looks like and some pricing ideas. Some
people make their own flies and others buy them. Fly tying is a time
consuming art. Personally, I’d rather spend time casting than tying. You
can usually match any hatch or imitation in the area from a local Fly
shop or even a catalog.
Equipment
Spend
what you can afford. You can get a decent (non-Wal-Mart) fly outfit,
including rod reel and line for under $150. I still use a 4 weight and
and 8 weight Plueger Medalist that I have had for years. They may be a
little heavy compared to new models, but I can attest to how durable
they are! Try to start with Floating lines. They are easier for
beginners and you can still use wet flies or nymphs in most cases with
them effectively. Tippet and line connectors will depend on what you are
fishing for. I like the pre-made tapered tippets. The usually come in 2X
on up. Rods are personal choice. I like a 7-8 f, 4-5 weights for trout
in the streams. I use a have used a 6-7 weights for lakes or rivers. My
Salmon/steelhead rod is a 9ft. 8 wieght. My advice is go conservative
with your first rod and spend most of your budget on a pair of stocking
foot, breathable waders with good felt and /or cleat soled wading boots.
They are the most comfortable on the market and are adaptable when
wearing either shorts or fleece wading pants underneath. A good fly vest
with adequate storage and compartments is a must. A pair of surgical
forceps and a nail clipper attached to a retractable pin on device is
very helpful. Depending on what you are fishing for the right size net
is important. Make sure it is attached to an easy access clip. Just
remember to keep things dull and avoid anything that shines. I have put
a flat, camo type paint on everything I use, including reels and even
rods. I even dull all my
Buckles,
snaps, forceps, sunglass frames, clippers, net, etc. It doesn’t matter
if you are in a boat, float tube or waders- a stealthy approach without
flash is important. When fishing the streams I always bring bug spray
and a head net, and wear all camo clothing, including my hat. I even
make sure that I do not wear any rings and I lightly dull coat my watch!
Polaroid sunglasses with brown lenses are a must! If you are planning on
keeping a couple for the pan make sure you check the local regulations.
Many fly fishing only areas are catch and release. The best creel on the
market is an Artic Creel. Spend the money. It will last you a lifetime,
keeps fish all day and is the only one worth getting!
Bait
You
will have to figure this out in 2 ways. Research and just being there.
Call ahead to local Fly Shops and get some ideas on what has been
working lately. It may be Stonefly or Caddis patterns. It could be Frog
Poppers or Fuzzy Mice. Once in Florida, the Redfish were hitting orange
crabs! Did you ever see an orange crab?? Bring a variety and try to have
at least 2 of each pattern! Fly
kits are available to get you started. They usually come in Trout,
Panfish, Bass, Pike assortments of various amounts. Saltwater kits are
harder to come buy. I once witnessed Stripers being caught in the
Potomac on 2/0 long shank hooks with only green pipe cleaners wrapped
around them! The local craft store was sold out of all pipe cleaners and
green paint in an hour!!
Flies
come in four categories. Dry (floating), Wet (nymphs and emergents),
Streamers (typical baitfish type patterns) and what I call Imitators.
The Imitators are salmon egg patterns, Mice, Crayfish, Crabs, Worms,
etc. Many times these are geographic and seasonal favorites.
Try Fly Fishing! It may force you to regain some of
your basic fishing skills that technology has stolen. Hopefully you will be able to handle fishing without all its
bells and whistles! Remember- Fish safe, stay dry and take a child
fishing every chance you can! Family fishing is fun too!
--Bob
Tackels
Season
Finale? Think Again!
While
most anglers are spending this time of year wearing camouflage, sighting
in guns, watching the World Series or chopping wood for the long winter
ahead, many are not! These anglers are breathing hard while bending over
the side of a Tuna boat, tying egg sacs, sharpening the hooks on their big
top water plugs and scheming to make leaf raking fun for the kids while
they are out fishing! “Reel” men, true anglers, know that major
sporting events can be taped, that leaves eventually blow away or decay
and that a gas fireplace is the best invention since graphite fishing
rods! Not only the bears are fattening up for the winter!
For
Steelhead in the
Great Lakes
, Browns and Rainbows in your
local trout stream, Stripers in the surf and Tuna in the Canyons, it is
chow down time! Fish bulk up naturally because history has embedded into
their systems that depending on how severe the winter is, these could be
the last meals for a while. While they may feed into frenzy and act
impulsively, they are still the same tough, wary adversaries we pursue
most of the time! Here are some ideas that may help you capitalize on the
best fishing of the year.
Trout
Before the
leaves are falling off the trees, Browns, Rainbows and Brookies are
looking up at this time of the year. They are not interested in the color
of the leaves! Grasshoppers are priority one! Hook one onto a dry fly hook
and lob it out near an undercut bank on light line and watch! I once
watched a 15 inch brown gulp down 8 grasshoppers in l5 minutes! A nearby
lawn cutter had sent them flying into the creek. You can fish them on a
fly rod or ultra light. Just try it! It is fun and the best time is
midday- early afternoon. Crickets aren’t quite as effective. The
brighter the colors of the hoppers the better! Fish towards the front end
of pools and runs so the trout can’t take to long a look. If you are
good at catching them (a butterfly net really helps), try chumming likely
liars first. Stay low, wear camo and use a quiet approach! They are
hungry, not stupid! As long as you can catch the hoppers, keep fishing
them!
Steelhead
If you
haven’t caught a Steelhead, make it priority! Most the major tributaries
and many of the minor ones of
Lake
Ontario
and other
Great Lakes
are the place to be right now. The Salmon are mostly in the river and
those Screaming Steelies are coming right behind to eat those freshly
spawned eggs! Try fishing the mouths of known Steelhead creeks. Use a
10-11 ft. “Noodle rod” and 4lb test line. Make sure you have plenty of
line on your reel. I had one peel off close to 125 yards before I got him
turned. If possible tie your own fresh spawn sacs and put a mini
marshmallow in the sac before you tie it. This will float the sac up off
the bottom and spread the scent. You can take a razor or small scissors
and carefully make a slit, put in the marshmallow and retie or superglue
the sac shut. If you plan on tying your own they do make a handy item
called the Spawnee Eggs Sac Machine, which I’ve used for years. Most
real tackle shops in the
Great
Lake
region sell it. Cast into the lake at the mouth on either side of the
current. Use a 3 way or pencil lead set up just enough to hold bottom. YOU
WILL KNOW WHEN THEY HIT! As
the Salmon get further up the river and start dying, start working the mid
to upper section of the creeks and rivers without the float in the egg
sacs. Also try night crawlers! Both Browns and Steelhead will be in the
river. I watched someone land two 10lb + browns and a 10lb Steelhead right
next to me on night crawlers! You never know!
STRIPERS
Try top water
and Bomber type pugs at slower, but at more erratic retrieves than usual.
Fish dull colors and hope for cloudy days. Try close in to the wash with
plugs and bait. Try small (9in-1ft.) eels early fall and as they water
cools down start using Bloodworms or sandworms. My wife's grandfather
showed me a photo of a beach full of nice Stripers caught off Lavallette
on the day after Christmas. They were all caught on Bloodworms.
Another
item to try is the Swimming Eel (which is a weighted wobble spoon with a
rubber eel attached). Soak those rubber eels in Bunker oil or spray them
with WD40. Yes, it makes a difference.
TUNA
We have
caught them into November if the warm stays warm. The cast of characters
that venture out to the canyons is almost as entertaining as the trip. I
have seen boats with several 50gallon drums of fuel lashed to the rails
just to make the trip. The Canyon Tuna Trip is not for the lighthearted or
the infirmed. We are talking 50-100+lbs. of brute strength with the speed
a cheetah would envy. Stand Up rod setups with sturdy fighting belts are a
must. Fluorocarbon leaders help dramatically on light bites. A lighter
jigging rod can be a worthwhile investment. Stay sober and get plenty of
rest. With any luck you won’t find yourself on your knees begging
someone to cut the line! If you plan the trip, ask if the Captain will
stop at the lobster pots for dolphin on the way in. If there is a chance,
bring a light rod that can handle lifting up to a 10 lb fish over the rail
that can cast small bucktails , jigs and spinner/spoons up to ¾ oz. It is
a lot of fast action fun, not to mention that Mahi-Mahi makes a nice
appetizer for your Tuna steak dinner!
Next issue we will be talking about hard water tactics, but lets enjoy
what open water we have left first.
Remember:
Stay dry, fish safe, keep only a taste and take a child fishing every
chance you can (just not out to the canyon please!). Family fishing is fun
too!
“REEL”MEN’s
WINTER REMEDY
Football season is over, your bows and guns
are put away until next year or maybe spring gobbler season. It is too
cold to even ice fish and ESPN 2 is showing old Bill Dance Show reruns!
Sure, you can spend a couple days wandering around the Outdoor Expos,
but what is a REEL man to do? How about getting a jump on the spring
fishing season and cleaning up your act! Now is the best time to clean
and repair your tackle, order supplies and start planning for open
water!! Here are a few tips and suggestions that will give you a head
start to maximizing your time on the water!
TACKLE
Rods - Carefully look over your rods.
Check for cracks around connections and reel seats. Look at the guide
wraps and make sure there are no loose ends. Run a piece of cheesecloth
or nylon socking through your guides and check for cuts or nicks. Double
check the tip guide! Many fish have been lost and lines have been
scarred and broken by defective guides. You can even take an old clean
t-shirt and some furniture polish and give your rods a new look!
Reels - Oil or lube any fittings with
reel lube. Take off the cover plate and check for dirt. Clean with a
soft brush, q-tip or cloth and make sure there is enough lube on all
moving parts. Use WD-40 or marine silicone spray on the bail and under
the spool after cleaning. Check the spool for any nicks. Make sure the
drag is working smoothly. Check the line for abrasions and strength. You
should change all your line at least once a year. If you often use soft,
easy cast, small diameter mono line, it should be inspected/changed
before every outing! Polish your reels up with boat or car polish!
Line – Use line that is more than a
couple years old as backing on any newly spooled reels. Depending on
where and how it is stored, most mono line can’t be trusted beyond
that. Try to store your line in a covered cardboard box at room
temperature. I have found this to work best with all types including
mono, dacron or hybrids such as Spiderwire. One tip about line if you
spend a lot of time on salt water or fishing on sunny days: try Reel
Magic! It is sold everywhere and will keep your reels and line in shape
under tough conditions. It as UV blockers and lubricants that will also
help you cast farther!
Lures - Sharpen hooks! Whether you use
a pencil type diamond sharpener or one of the battery operated styles,
make sure the hook is sharp enough to scratch a thumbnail with hardly
any pressure. Pay special attention to treble hooks. Ask yourself if
there are any lures that you really only want to have a single or double
hook on. Check your spinner blades. Polish them up or paint them if
needed. I have used all types of polish in Swiss Swings, Mepps, Vibrex
and Panther Martin blades. Noxon and TarnX work well, but fluoride
toothpaste and a toothbrush work well also!
Check out the lips on crank baits, the skirts on
top water plugs and the tie eyes everything! I fought a large Brown
Trout on 4lb for 20 minutes only to have a rough tie eye cause the knot
to break!
Take a close look and sharpen your jig hooks and
make sure your plastic grubs and worms are still in good condition.
EQUIPMENT
Waders – Check rubber for cracks, neoprene
tape seals and suspender stress areas and the “breathable” fabrics
for any wear spots in the knees, etc. Check the stocking foot models for
wear around the boot cuff line or “gravel guard areas. Superglue and
silicone can repair just about anything. This will also give you time to
check with manufacturers about patch kits, etc. Inspect your felt soles!
My 1999 Trout opening day was a washout because my felt soles came
unglued and I was confined to a small shoreline section of a great trout
steam! If you need to replace them, try the felt with studs inserted!
They are great and are easier on the legs than Corkers or jetty cleats!
Vests – Empty your pockets onto a table.
Make sure you have only what you need and keep your load as light as
possible. I started making up separate cigar type boxes with special
tackle for Steelhead fishing, Shad fishing, etc. This way I always had
the staples such as split shot, hooks, ultra light lure box, etc., for
trout fishing in my vest. If after a morning of Browns and Rainbows I
decided to try the Delaware for Shad, I just switched a few pockets,
kept my load light and kept things organized. The cigar boxes don’t
take up much room and don’t make much noise banging around in a trunk
or cargo area!
Make sure your Velcro fastens, your snaps snap and
your zippers zipper!
Nets/ Bait Containers/Creels
Make sure those containers are empty and cleaned
out with hot water! I like using the “slide on the belt type”. Just
make sure if you wade deep you put the belt around your neck! Make sure
the bait containers close tight and have some air holes on top! If you
are a powerbait or egg fisherman, they make web belts that hold the jars
or plastic egg containers that make it very easy to use.
Try to always use tangle free nets. The cheaper,
big hole, string/fabric nets or those made of nylon with the big holes
can damage fish and get caught up in the brush too often!
Check your nets for dry rot or holes. Make sure
they are of an adequate size for your chosen species. I once went to
land a 7lb shad and realized I forgot my Steelhead size net. I had to
make do with my little native trout teardrop sized one. I swear I saw
that Shad laughing before the hook pulled free!
If you are planning on keeping some for the pan,
prepare ahead of time. I know a lot of you “long rod “ purists like
to get nostalgic with those wicker creels, but they do a lousy job
keeping fish. BUY AN ARTIC CREEL! I have one that is over 25 years old
and still gets the job done. They come in 2 sizes; have a ruler on the
top and a zipper pocket. On hot days you can put a cold pack in for
extra care. Otherwise you just dip it in the cool water and they will
keep your catch fresh all day!
Your Tackle Box/Containers
Use hot water and clean them out! Take a good look
at any scent bottles and check for cracks. Try and organize by how you
fish most. Get rid of or clean and oil rusty items.
Make sure you have the essentials and go from
there. Check handles, zippers etc. Make sure that plastic containers
have at least a couple breathing holes on the sides. I try and keep a
variety/all purpose box that covers a variety of species and situations
and has the essentials (hooks, sinkers, swivels, pliers, etc.) in it and
then I have “species bags”. One for Stripers, Salmon, Walleye, etc.
Label your containers or vary their colors. This way you can tell a boat
mate to hand you the “Striper” bag or the green bag. It saves time
and is easy to keep track of.
PLANNING
Restock your supplies now. If there are items that
need to be replaced or new ones you want to try, ORDER NOW! Most
catalogs like Cabela’s (my personal favorite) or Bass Pro Shops have
their Spring or Anglers catalogs out by now. You can even order live
bait!
Now is also a good time to gather information and
do some scouting. Take a ride to a lake you plan on trying out. Talk to
some Tackle shops and get some hints about when the lake turns on for
what species, etc. Buy some topographical maps if available. Check out
some new sections of streams. With the leaves off the trees you can get
a great view of holes or likely looking spots that you won’t be able
to see in a few months.
If you are a boat owner, take a peak under the
cover and see if you notice anything. Check batteries/connections/fuses
and make sure you have your spring supplies like lower unit lube, oil,
sparkplugs.
There is much to do! No reason to be bored and no
time to be sitting around watching TV, eating and using up the few holes
left on your belt!
Whatever you do, remember: Stay safe, warm and dry.
Remember to take a child fishing every possible opportunity and family
fishing is fun too!
SPECIAL
WINTER ADDITION:
Fish
“On The Rocks”
For millions
of people across the northern hemisphere, freezing temperatures are a
real turn on! This league of devoted diehards has been increasing
dramatically over the last few years.
Reasons for this injection of global insanity range from the
overall quest for more outdoor time, the advances of new clothing and
equipment on to our increasing need to be challenged! This activity
bonds the most high tech with the most primitive. You can make it as
simple or as complicated as you like.
There are two simple rules: Don’t fall through and don’t
drift away! You guessed it. ICE FISHING!
Last
winter this became very apparent one day while I was on a lake in
Pennsylvania. The first person I encountered was an older gentlemen
sitting on a five gallon bucket, holding an obviously homemade jigging
rod. Next to him was an ice spud (the long handled chisel type), an old
wood handled metal strainer and about seven very nice sized Perch! When
asked what he caught them on he replied, “Swedish pimple and mousie”
as he reached into an inside pocket and showed me his “tackle box”.
It consisted of two large, drug
prescription containers, duct taped together. One for the mousies-one
for the 2 extra Swedish Pimple jigs! “How deep?” I asked. He shot me
one of those “where else” looks and replied, “Just off the
bottom..” I wished him luck and walked about 30 yards over to a
curious looking black box sitting on the ice.
As
I got close to the black box, a guy stepped out carrying a gas powered
ice auger, fired her up and drilled two holes nearby. I also noticed red
X marks spray painted onto the snow by where he was drilling and a few
others further out. When I inquired about the X marks, he invited me
over to his black box, which turned out to be a portable ice shanty that
collapsed in seconds into an attached sled! Inside the portable shanty
was a portable heater/stove, a fancy looking portable ‘flasher type”
fish finder and a hand-held GPS! “ I walked around with my flasher and
marked any different structure or fish that came up in the area”, he
said. “Now I just keep rotating on the selected sites and try
different lures until I hook up. I recorded the sites on my GPS, so now
all I have to do is recall the data and drill some holes!” He then
proceeded to show me his 4 tackle containers. Swimming Rapala jigs,
painted teardrop jigs, Foxy jigs and Kastmaster jigs
(all sorted by size and finish color). He also had 3 jigging rods
with matching reels. Light, medium and heavy! In fact, this guy had just
about everything for ice fishing I’d ever seen or heard of EXCEPT FISH
ON THE ICE! I walked away when he started checking his Palm Pilot to
recall data he’d been compiling on past feeding patterns! As I walked
by the guy sitting on the five gallon bucket, his eighth and ninth Perch
were still flopping on the ice!
These
“hard water walkers” wear cleats on their boots, drink hot liquids,
run after “tip up flags” and most have a fun time. Depending on
where you live, there are tournaments and derbies that have Junior and
Adult prizes which can be a fun family outing. This is another way to
fend off cabin fever and keep your angling skills sharp.
Here are some tips and tactics that may help get some fish
through the hole.
Equipment
For
starters:
1)
a hand auger, such as the Mora Ice Drill, with a 8 inch cut. If
you keep the blades sharp and want some exercise, they are lightweight
and dependable. If you are lazy, out of shape or are way north where the
ice is always a foot or more thick, invest in a Jiffy Ice Auger with a
3hp. motor and 10 inch cut.
2)
A metal ice ladle that is sturdy enough to break skim ice and
clear out slush
3)
A “sounder” (usually a 2-4 oz weight with an alligator clip
embedded into it). This will help determine depth, weeds/structure under
your hole before you lose a jig or bait.
4)
Flasher/Locator(optional)- I like a flasher sensitive enough to
pick up a jig on the screen. Portable models are lightwieght and
normally you will get 2 to 3 outings on a pair 6 volt lantern batteries.
5)
Jigging rods. You
should have 2. One for small dots or teardrops that can sense the
lightest crappie or perch bite, the other beefy enough to lift a bass,
big trout or walleye up through the hole.
6)
“Tip ups”- There are too many versions to list! Some jig the
bait via the wind, some stay on top of the hole while most have the
“reel” submerged. Just make sure the spool turns effortlessly! Many
hardwater fish are light biters and will drop the bait if they feel the
slightest tension or resistance.
7)
Insulated bait buckets- I like the type that are plastic inner
and outer shell with foam in between. I usually paint them black to help
attract
the sun and avoid
freezing. Bring a long handled bait net!
8)
Line and reels – Limp lines are a must. Especially when using
small
Jigs.
Small diameter or fluorocarbon is a must for Crappie, Trout, Walleye and
Perch .With Pike, Bass and Muskies you can get away with hybrid lines
such a Spiderwire, etc. Reels should be of decent quality with excellent
drags. For both rods and reels stay with dark colors that absorb
sunlight and warmth!
9)
Lures- vertical jigs such as Swedish Pimples, Kastmasters and
Crippled Herrings in the
smallest to medium size are the staple. “dots”
or ‘teardrop” jigs with
the single hook and tiny size are great for finicky light biters like
perch, trout and other panfish. Swimming jigs such as Rapala jigs,
“Bigeyes” and “Airplane jigs” will work best on Walleye, bigger
Trout, Bass and the Pike family.
10)
A gaff..You may need to lift a fish up to 3 feet (between ice and snow)
through a hole. A small hook gaff comes in handy. It can also double
as a walking stick!
11)
A sled or icebox. Depending on how much stuff (hand or gas auger,
etc.)
you want to bring will determine what you need. Jet Sled’s are
great for throwing a lot of
stuff in one place. They are stable over drifts and uneven ice. They can
even be pulled by an ATV. Many
hard water anglers custom build their own sleds. I built my own out of
plywood that has compartments for a bait bucket, secured rod
holders, collapseable stove,
gaff, tackle, etc. I even made it so that it floats when loaded, has a
fold down back rest / wind blocker, cushioned seat and
rides on a pair of skis. It is very stable and even has an ice
anchor, safety float rope on an outside hook and clamps to secure down
an ice auger. It is light enough to lift out of an SUV (without the gas
auger and bait bucket) and will fit into a backseat
of a car if needed.
12)
SAFTEY- a)Cleats on your feet b) a 50 ft.(min) length of floating
rope with a Floating ring or float clip at one end, c) ice spikes-
(small easy to grip handles that have spikes through them that are
attached together with a 5ft piece of float rope) They can help pull
yourself out of a hole. d) a space or warm up blanket (usually comes
lightwieght like Mylar)
Clothing
Wear
layers! It is not uncommon to start off wearing a snow mobile suit and
end up in short sleeves! Waterproof outerwear is a must.
Insulated Coveralls are great for extreme cold but can be too
warm once the sun is up and the wind dies down. Waterproof gloves,
fingertip glove/ mitts, and glove liners are good ideas. Dry socks and
Thermal socks combined are a great idea but boots are a “make or
break” item. I prefer 13” waterproof Pac Style boots with a
Mylar/felt liner. Gortex is another great option. Make sure the boot is
rated for –25 degrees or colder and stay away from steel toe or shank
boots. Hats are ok but must cover your ears with thermal material,
however I prefer on frigid days to wear a fleece Balacava that I can
cover my entire face if I need to. Plus they cover your neck and chest
areas hats don’t. Always bring an extra hat, gloves, matches/lighter
and socks on to the ice in a zip lock bag! A change of clothes should
always be in your car!
Techniques
Once
you have selected an area, you have 2 choices. Use a flasher to locate
structure or drop offs and then drill your holes or drill enough holes
in a zig zag on either side of the drop off /weed line or structure that
you are familiar with. In
most states you are allowed 5 fishing devices. I would set up 4
stationary devices (Tip Ups or Jigging rods with open bails/ strike
guards on a rod stand) with bait at various depths and then jig around
and/or use the flasher to see where the fish were concentrated and at
what depth. I would drill
10 holes per person to start off and then start putting bait down and
jigging. This would give the fish time to settle after the noise of a
gas auger or even a hand auger. You can always move around. Regardless
of what I am fishing for I always use a hook- leader-barrel swivel-egg
sinker set up on my stationary devices. The size of everything depends
on the bait you use. Recently I have been using circle hooks more,
especially when the Pike family is around or I want to release fish.
Most
of the time you will want your bait on the bottom to 2 feet off the
bottom, unless you are finding actively feeding fish that are suspended
with your flasher/locator. I
prefer stationary rods in normal weather conditions instead of Tip Ups.
It is more fun reeling a fish in and having the drag work for you. If
extreme cold or wind keeps refreezing the holes over, Tip Ups are the
only option.
For
Stationary Rod Setups:
Buy
the cheap jigging rods with the big guides. Clip on a “strike guard”
at the top of the handle. Make sure whatever stand device you purchase
will not tip over and into a hole! Test it on at the edge of the sales
counter if possible. Tug on the line below the counter and make sure the
drag gives before the stand flips over! Try taking a wood, solid plastic
or hard rubber ball about 2” in diameter (make sure it floats) and
drill a hole through the middle about ¼ inch round. Glue a piece of
aquarium air tubing in the hole and paint the ball blaze orange. When
you set the rod up, run the line through the ball and then to the sinker
and swivel. Put your bait down at the desired depth, slide the ball up
to the rod tip and hold it in place with a paperclip. Here is what will
happen: The fish bites and releases the strike guard (putting the line
in free spool). The ball drops into the hole (clearing any skim ice in
the process) and the fish only has the drag of a paperclip if it
doesn’t fall off! The ball is a strike indicator. It acts the same way
as when a tip up flag pops up, only it pops down! This is deadly on all
fish because they feel no tension and never drop the bait! It is fun
too!
Tip-Ups
There
are so many on the market now it is tough deciding. The sturdier ones
are great for the big bass and pike family. With tip ups, I run Dacron
or “Spider Wire” type line to the egg sinker/ barrel swivel. From
the swivel I run a fluorocarbon (or wire for Pike) leader to the hook.
You really need no more than 8” of wire even for the big guys!
“Material” line is easier to handle on the ice and to wrap on a
spool than monofilament. Try putting a medium sized, flat button through
the main line above the sinker. Slide it up towards the spool once your
depth is set. This will act as a “speed sounder” for accurate depth
setting and you can tell if you had a false strike when you look into
the whole without pulling the tip up out. Most buttons are plastic and
do not add any drag to the line.
Jigging
Perch,
Crappie or pinfish try a
locator rig. Use a metal jig (Kastmaster or Swedish Pimple) the bottom
and a Dot or ice fly about a foot above it. It will double your chances.
Start off with small sizes. If they are aggressive, then you can switch
over to a small swimming Rapala jig or single jig set up. Tip the jigs
off with a maggot, wax worm or mousie
Trout
will go for a single metal jig tipped
with either a mealworm or power bait. Larger trout will like a swimming
jig better. Gold/black Rapala jigs work great. Crippled Herrings work
well too.
Bass
will usually prefer larger metal jigs
and I’ve done well with Shad darts tipped with a small/med. Shiner.
Larger swimming jigs work well too! Smallmouth like the Foxee jigs or a
grub tail at times.
Walleye
and Lake Trout will go for medium to
large metal jigs tipped with baitfish and love “Airplane” and other
swimming jigs tipped with cut bait. Also try Mister Twister and buck
tails in white, yellow and green. Spray them with a little WD 40.
Pickeral/Pike/Muskie
want the big stuff. Large is key. Try
tipping large Shad Darts with shiners. Big Crippled Herrings and Magnum
Rapala swimmers.
Indicators
are helpful with small dots and
teardrop jigs for pan fish, and crappie. They will also keep you in the
strike
zone. Make sure the hole is totally clear when using them.
Motion
is the key to jigging. I once caught 9 trout out of one hole and never
moved the Swedish Pimple with mealworm! I’ve had to lift –drop 3
times quickly then shimmy to get a Bass to hit. Once something works,
stick with it until it doesn’t! Many times just the Shiner tipped Shad
Dart occasionally twitched would spark a Pickerel. The Airplane and
swimming jigs are easy. A steady motion to move the bait in a circle
around the hole is key.
One
last tip. Look for previously drilled holes that have either blood or
beat- en up looking baitfish near them. Chances are that area will
produce again. Never try to re-drill an old hole. You can ruin your bit
or damage your auger. Always drill a fresh hole.
The
Safest ice is usually clear and should be 4+ inches (6+ inches to fish
in close proximity) for an adult. To measure ice, take a yardstick and
screw an “L” bracket to the end. Highlight or paint the 4” mark.
Hook the “L” under the hole and measure only the hard ice. Never
include the frozen snow or slush in
your measurement. Avoid pressure cracks, ridges and open water areas.
Stay
warm and dry. Fish safe. Bring a container of hot soup, coffee or
chocolate with you. Bundle up the kids and enjoy. Remember: take a child
fishing every chance you can and Family fishing is fun too!
-Bob Tackels
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